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taking off a knotter assembly on a 14t square baler

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R A

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I'm getting hung up on something trying to take off a broken knotter frame. I can't find a thing in my manual on how to do it and not much on my internet searches. I can move the axle or bar the knotters sit on about an inch or a little less out of the left side away from the bevel gears, but can't see what is stopping it. I took out a long set looking screw that wasn't in very far and see another pin of sorts right next to it that runs through the bar, but it won't move more than an 1/8 inch either way and I'm affraid to pound on that too hard??? Any help would be appreciated!
 

floyd

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All the gears on that shaft have keepers on them. Just need to find all them. Don't forget to put the extra spacers back on for future adjustments.
 

R A

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floyd said:
All the gears on that shaft have keepers on them. Just need to find all them. Don't forget to put the extra spacers back on for future adjustments.

Got it off, thanks! Once I got the first keeper deal off from under one of the intermittent knotter gears, the rest got a little easier to get off, but that wasn't what I expected getting that thing off. Will do on the extra spacers. I appreciate it!
 

Hayguy

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glad you got it off, now just to get it back together again. my concern would be what happened to break it in the first place? was going to suggest you go to the JD store and get the parts guy's to give you a blowed up copy of their part's diagram...sometimes helps to see where everthing is or going :wink: :lol:
 

R A

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hayguy said:
glad you got it off, now just to get it back together again. my concern would be what happened to break it in the first place? was going to suggest you go to the JD store and get the parts guy's to give you a blowed up copy of their part's diagram...sometimes helps to see where everthing is or going :wink: :lol:

I got it all back together. Going to try my hand at timing the thing tomorrow morning for the first time and then go out and break my needles because I did it wrong.....lol. Man, I hope I don't!

I'm pretty sure I broke the knotter frame. I broke a little piece off of a wiper arm. I replaced it with a new one. The knotter frame broke the first time it tried to knot the next run I was going to bale. There's paint missing off of both the new wiper arm and the top of the bale case like they hit pretty hard.

That's an excellant idea on the diagram print outs! I will do that the next time I run to town.

Thanks!
 

PATB

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remember that grease is your best friend with balers. Take the time to grease it everytime you use it. :D
 

George

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When you get it back in time ( or so you hope ) keep the baler empty and turn the flywheel by hand and make several knots - - - if you are not in time you will not break anything!
 

Big Muddy rancher

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George said:
When you get it back in time ( or so you hope ) keep the baler empty and turn the flywheel by hand and make several knots - - - if you are not in time you will not break anything!

Good advice :!:

Get somebody to turn the flywheel over by hand and hold it don't let it roll back while your setting it.
 

cowman52

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The old wiper arms had to be bent by a crowbar to do what they were intended to do, don't assume that it is right just because it is new. The new balers have an adjustment but the 14t doesn't. If you roll it by hand you can feel any binding. Timing is just like the new balers [j d] the hang up is the chain drive and the trigger inside the engaging cam.
The one we had the frame was broke and welded back. Worked better after welding than before.
 

R A

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PATB said:
remember that grease is your best friend with balers. Take the time to grease it everytime you use it. :D

Will do! I appreciate any and all tips! Thanks!


George said:
When you get it back in time ( or so you hope ) keep the baler empty and turn the flywheel by hand and make several knots - - - if you are not in time you will not break anything!

No go on being timed yet. I've done something to where the fly wheel doesn't run the knotters when I trip the lever??? Thanks for this, as I don't have it right yet, but haven't broke anything! I have learned a ton on what it does turning that flywheel around.


Big Muddy rancher said:
Get somebody to turn the flywheel over by hand and hold it don't let it roll back while your setting it.

Thanks for the tip! ..that does help!



cowman52 said:
The old wiper arms had to be bent by a crowbar to do what they were intended to do, don't assume that it is right just because it is new. The new balers have an adjustment but the 14t doesn't. If you roll it by hand you can feel any binding. Timing is just like the new balers [j d] the hang up is the chain drive and the trigger inside the engaging cam.
The one we had the frame was broke and welded back. Worked better after welding than before.

Yeah, other than maybe not being lined up to scrape the bill hook right, I did assume it wouldn't hit anything else. The knotter fromae is broke in a couple different places, but does look like it might be able to be welded. I might do that and have an extra if it works. I can't believe all that goes on with these things and what all you have to look at and for! Thanks for the help!
 

R A

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Is there an easy way to take off this knotter drive chain other than taking off the shaft the knotters are on when you want to time it?
hh2.jpg



I can't adjust the feeder drive chain any tighter. It is really loose. Do I need a new chain?
hh.jpg

hh1.jpg
 

gcreekrch

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There will be one or more master links in the chain, either tiny Cottar pins or a snap ring deally to hold things together. Check the chain for wear and stretch by pushing a few links together and pulling apart on a flat surface. A good chain has no play.
 

Big Muddy rancher

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gcreekrch said:
There will be one or more master links in the chain, either tiny Cottar pins or a snap ring deally to hold things together. Check the chain for wear and stretch by pushing a few links together and pulling apart on a flat surface. A good chain has no play.

Yes and a wore out chain will be a link or 2 longer just in stretch and could throw out your timeimg.
 

cowman52

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Grease is your best friend but, a 1/2 shot in the knotters is enough. Everything is tight enough to not need a lot.
On the iiming, get the plunger head where it needs to be with the kotter chain disconnected, trip the knotter

trigger,shove the needles up into the case, wire them there, wedge the flywheel, then turn the cam by hand, You will feel a bump as you turn it.
When all this happens, that is where the chain needs to be buckled together. If you need to turn anything, do it to bring needles up a bit closer to the plunger than farther out. If this is off the safety stop will graze the crank by a little.
The knotter chain is best worked by a wire attached to both ends, work it around the gear and buckle it right on top. You will feel the cam follower through the wires.
 

R A

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First - Thanks for everyone's help. I've never worked on anything....never had anything until now to work on.


Farmerkuk said:
take out a link in the chain.........

gcreekrch said:
There will be one or more master links in the chain, either tiny Cottar pins or a snap ring deally to hold things together. Check the chain for wear and stretch by pushing a few links together and pulling apart on a flat surface. A good chain has no play.

Big Muddy rancher said:
gcreekrch said:
There will be one or more master links in the chain, either tiny Cottar pins or a snap ring deally to hold things together. Check the chain for wear and stretch by pushing a few links together and pulling apart on a flat surface. A good chain has no play.

Yes and a wore out chain will be a link or 2 longer just in stretch and could throw out your timeimg.

floyd said:
Bite the bullet & buy new chain. Maybe replace the chain on the pto as well.

Think I paid $50 for 10'.

Thanks everybody! I read these earlier while working on the baler. Long story short, I have a handle on the chains now and have a plan for what needs what on them and how to do it now. I've never messed with one before. I appreciate it!
 

katrina

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R A said:
First - Thanks for everyone's help. I've never worked on anything....never had anything until now to work on.


Farmerkuk said:
take out a link in the chain.........

gcreekrch said:
There will be one or more master links in the chain, either tiny Cottar pins or a snap ring deally to hold things together. Check the chain for wear and stretch by pushing a few links together and pulling apart on a flat surface. A good chain has no play.

Big Muddy rancher said:
gcreekrch said:
There will be one or more master links in the chain, either tiny Cottar pins or a snap ring deally to hold things together. Check the chain for wear and stretch by pushing a few links together and pulling apart on a flat surface. A good chain has no play.

Yes and a wore out chain will be a link or 2 longer just in stretch and could throw out your timeimg.

floyd said:
Bite the bullet & buy new chain. Maybe replace the chain on the pto as well.

Think I paid $50 for 10'.

Thanks everybody! I read these earlier while working on the baler. Long story short, I have a handle on the chains now and have a plan for what needs what on them and how to do it now. I've never messed with one before. I appreciate it!

Try to buy American made chain... Not chain from China... USA chain is better
 

R A

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cowman52 said:
Grease is your best friend but, a 1/2 shot in the knotters is enough. Everything is tight enough to not need a lot.
On the iiming, get the plunger head where it needs to be with the kotter chain disconnected, trip the knotter

trigger,shove the needles up into the case, wire them there, wedge the flywheel, then turn the cam by hand, You will feel a bump as you turn it.
When all this happens, that is where the chain needs to be buckled together. If you need to turn anything, do it to bring needles up a bit closer to the plunger than farther out. If this is off the safety stop will graze the crank by a little.
The knotter chain is best worked by a wire attached to both ends, work it around the gear and buckle it right on top. You will feel the cam follower through the wires.

Thanks for this! It is funny that stuff like what you say here is making perfect sense now. I might be doing the cam part wrong....on the feeling the bump part....whether I'm stopping at the right place as far as going through the bump...hearing it click, or stopping right before....when it just starts to hit it??? I might have an idea on how to put a wire on the knotter chain, but might be a little fuzzy on that.
 

leanin' H

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This thread is awesome! :D A bunch of crazy ranchers trying act like expert farmers while helping a fellow rancher fix his equipment using technical words like "Snap ring deally"(Gcreek)!! :lol: I know you guys know your stuff and i am glad RA has your experience and wisdom. And mostly i am glad to know you all, cause you never cease to make me smile. Good luck with your baler RA. I don't have a baler! :( That's what happens on the world smallest ranch. I can't afford fancy equipment like you have buddy! :wink: Carry on with the repairs and the repair directions! :lol: :wink:
 

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