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No-till pasture drill

try a great plains drill. for grass work, it seems to be the better of the ones I have used.
 
With the high price of fuel these days I have become quite interested in the no till drill idea. From what I can understand it works well for pasture or hay land. Anyone ever try it on hay? From what I've read it takes quite a bit of spray and some fertalizer.
I've heard good things about the Hay Buster and the Great Plains drills.
 
I've used Tye and Great Plains back when I was farming on prepared seed beds, but not the no-till versions. What kind of a guarantee of getting a stand sod seeding in short cut Bahia and Bermuda pasture...as good as minimum till and standard double disk drill?

I'm thinking the same way, Silver...less passes thru the field and seeding legumes every chance I get to cut back on fertilizer. One trick I learned from R.L.Dalrymple...mix DAP with the seed at about 50 to 75 pounds per acre. Not enough N to burn the seedlings, but makes for a good starter fertilizer for them and not everything else.
 
What kind of a guarantee of getting a stand sod seeding in short cut Bahia and Bermuda pasture.
Click to expand...

What are you seeding..........winter annuals, ryegrass? If so, we get good stands with the no-till drill. Ours has a clover hopper and I usually put a few pounds of that to the acre as well.

Usually wait til after first frost to no-till oats, wheat, rye, etc. It doesn't do well with just a small amount of competition.

I do some food plots for hunters too in the fall and plant all kinds of crap they find in the magazines. Some guy called the other day and wants to plant 50-75 acres of alfalfa for his deer this fall. Guess he'll have to put down some "Poast" next spring? :lol:

No-till is definitely a big fuel saver.....................
 
Mike said:
Usually wait til after first frost to no-till oats, wheat, rye, etc. It doesn't do well with just a small amount of competition.
Click to expand...

This is what I need to know...I plant Rye and Ryegrass in the Sept. so I can get grazing(usually just the rye thru winter) starting in late Nov./ early Dec. A close bush hogging and a couple of light disking works on the competition, but that is what I would like to eliminate. I assume your experience, as mine, the heavier the summer sod, the less stand and growth until late winter/early spring. On the other hand, where I plant winter grazing every year, I've eliminated the thick summer sod and much of the summer grazing. So now I need to no-till summer annuals into the ryegrass late season.

Then I begin to think irrigation would be a better place to spend my money. :?
 
RobertMac said:
Mike said:
Usually wait til after first frost to no-till oats, wheat, rye, etc. It doesn't do well with just a small amount of competition.
Click to expand...

This is what I need to know...I plant Rye and Ryegrass in the Sept. so I can get grazing(usually just the rye thru winter) starting in late Nov./ early Dec. A close bush hogging and a couple of light disking works on the competition, but that is what I would like to eliminate. I assume your experience, as mine, the heavier the summer sod, the less stand and growth until late winter/early spring. On the other hand, where I plant winter grazing every year, I've eliminated the thick summer sod and much of the summer grazing. So now I need to no-till summer annuals into the ryegrass late season.

Then I begin to think irrigation would be a better place to spend my money. :?
Click to expand...

My irrigation estimates put me at about $10-12 per acre to put down 1" of water.

I have some "Big Fellow" soybeans coming on and hope to put the cows in late July. They have had no rain at all since planting. None. Nada. Zilch.
 
Mike, I would gladly share some of our moisture with you if we could arrange it. We have had a very cool and wet spring. Not that we are getting a huge amount of rain -it just doesn't quit for more than a half day at a time. Not much hay cut yet but it sure looks like a heavy crop this year for a change. Still quite a few edible beans to be planted and the calender is a movin on.
 
Burnt, I'll take some of that!! :D A month ago, half my pastures were under water...haven't had any substantial rain since and getting very dry. Had rain all around me, but not on me! :(

Mike, I take it your Tye does large seed and small seed equally well?
 
RobertMac said:
Burnt, I'll take some of that!! :D A month ago, half my pastures were under water...haven't had any substantial rain since and getting very dry. Had rain all around me, but not on me! :(

Mike, I take it your Tye does large seed and small seed equally well?
Click to expand...

I've even planted turnips out of the clover hopper............

One thing I do not like about it is that you can't plant a grass/grain out of the main hopper and vetch out of the clover hopper at the same time. The clover hopper is for small seed only.
 
Mike said:
RobertMac said:
Burnt, I'll take some of that!! :D A month ago, half my pastures were under water...haven't had any substantial rain since and getting very dry. Had rain all around me, but not on me! :(

Mike, I take it your Tye does large seed and small seed equally well?
Click to expand...

I've even planted turnips out of the clover hopper............

One thing I do not like about it is that you can't plant a grass/grain out of the main hopper and vetch out of the clover hopper at the same time. The clover hopper is for small seed only.
Click to expand...

I mix seeds...rye and ryegrass and white clover...in my old IH soybean drill. I've also used pelletized lime or DAP with small seeds like ryegrass and crabgrass as a carrier.
 

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