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Body work on trucks

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Angus Cattle Shower

Well-known member
Feb 25, 2005
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Well, my right hand man calved on me Saturday, the pinion seal pushed out of the rear end so all the diff fluid leaked out and the bearings in the rear end heated up and caused the rear end to pile up. Since it's in the shop anyways I figured I would give my 98 chevy a paint job. Ive got a friend good with a paint gun, and one to help me with filling in paint chips with bondo. I usually wouldnt do this to a truck, but she's got 330 000km and zero rust. runs and drives good, but needs a wheel alignment and the four wheel drive cuts out once in a while, which is either the actuator in the front differential or something in the transfer cadse. Does anyone have any wisdom to share with me as to how I should go about painting it? do I need to reprime? Do I need a clear coat or something?
when doing repairs, ... the old paint and the repairs take on paint at different rates, .. so without a primer or base coat/wetsand it would look really crappy..

I use duplicolor self etching primer in a light coat.. it seems to work well with most paints.. even though it is not it's intended use..

as for clear coat most paints are base, color and clear.. read the re-coat times! some are hot and will peal if not done right..

if you decide to use an enamel.. make sure you add hardener properly..

if your real adventurous try the fifty dollar paint job.. (now more like a $100)

I did it on a Bronco II for off road and it is still holding up..

a link I found useful..

I wouldn't use the $50 paint job on my 69 mustang fastback but it does come out nice, cheap and really durable.

I had contacted this guy before doing the paint..

member name: 69chargeryeehaa (you can link to his e-mail address)
Do not forget the hardener!
First off you need to clean it with a wax and grease remover before beginning any sanding other wise you may actually grind in unwanted solvents,grease,wax silicon the list is endless. Next would be lots of sanding and you need to scuff up all of the good paint also so the new paint will stick other wise it will peal off at a later date.I've painted alot of cars and a couple thousand trailers in my life. You'll learn that the paint job is only as good as the prep work do a poor job sanding it will show thru the new paint. An old truck I'd just leave it be.
I would agree about the wax.. but does anyone wax their work truck?

even if it is a neglected truck,.. the wax needs to be stripped first.. the process will also take off some harmful grim..

prep work is critical.. and sanding is one of the most critical parts of prep work..

but don't strip off all the paint.. nothing will destroy a vehicle quicker then exposed bare metal, I have seen more then my share of nightmares when a person decides to go to bare metal..

for a first paint job keep it easy and try out a small area like the tail gate,.. or the inside of the bed..

and as for mustang pics.. I will try to get a few uploaded, but I am just at the body work stage on it.. , the list seems endless.. and I started with a fairly rust-free car. it looked as if it only needed rear quarters and drop downs done..
so far I have replaced, the passenger shock tower, front apron, both torque boxes, front frame rail extensions, rear passenger frame rail, rear trunk and drop-downs, my next job is rear wheel-wells and quarters, and then I can move on to floor-pans,..

I did PAINT the doors to try to pick a color.. and to make it look like I accomplished something.. they look great... :lol:

right now we have a 28 leather-back in the shop getting all our attention.. and it is for sale! I'd be glad to deliver it .. :)
Well, no paint for me for a while. I found some hidden problems with my truck that need to come before a $350 can of paint :shock: But thanks everyone for the tips, keep 'em coming, it will come sooner or later.

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