Does anyone have advise on how to cut the bead on the 7 and 8 foot diameter excevation tires? I have been working most of the winter with a recip saw and a chain saw and haven't had much luck. The ones I saw at the Boseman University Stock Farm looked like they were cut with a chain saw. So I tried it. But it's sure slow going. Maybe I'm not doing it right
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Does Anybody Have Advice on Bead Cutting
- Thread starter cedardell
- Start date
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Gulchrider
Well-known member
If you have access to a "Sawzall" and an assortment of blades, you should be able to find one that works. However, you'll need to solidly support the area you're cutting so it doesn't try to follow the blade up and down. :roll: There should be a lot of steel wire in that bead, so the coursest metal-cutting blade you can find might be the ticket.
cowsense
Well-known member
We had a local dealer that prepared and sold tire troughs made out of excavator tires. He used a HD sawzall (burnt out several) and hired big husky kids from the football team to cut. One of the bigger companies has a hydraulic tire turner and a HD knife cutter that slices the bead. There's a company up here that makes a HD plastic insert that covers the bottom bead. It comes with a verticle stack and is caulked and lag screwed to the bottom bead.
Jason
Well-known member
Use some oil. The rubber gets hot and will stick with incredible force.
On tractor tires that have no steel reinforcement in the sidewall, a good knife and some oil is faster than a saw of any kind.
I cut one that was a 4 foot wide tire from some kind of flotation truck. Took 15 minutes with oil and a knife.
On tractor tires that have no steel reinforcement in the sidewall, a good knife and some oil is faster than a saw of any kind.
I cut one that was a 4 foot wide tire from some kind of flotation truck. Took 15 minutes with oil and a knife.
Cowpuncher
Well-known member
Use a 7 or 9 inch angle grinder with a used 14 inch chop saw blade that is still 7 or 8 inches in diameter. It will cut through the bead, but won't work very well except on the bead.
By the way, used chop saw blades in a 9 inch angle grinder are handier than a pocket on a shirt for cutting anything. Lot faster for small items than using a torch. (Works on wood too, but sure smokes!!!!)
By the way, used chop saw blades in a 9 inch angle grinder are handier than a pocket on a shirt for cutting anything. Lot faster for small items than using a torch. (Works on wood too, but sure smokes!!!!)
jtg
Member
You have to be real careful about using chop saw blades in an angle grinder. I have a friend that did that and it flew apart and cut up his leg really bad. They might be fine for cutting things but don't use them to grind things.
Jinglebob
Well-known member
What I found was that you need to use opposing force. Use a wedge or something of the sort to put pressure on the cut to push it apart and then you can cut the rubber with a knife, until you come to some wire and then the recip saw will work or any type of saw.
We cut a bunch by setting an old iron mowing machine wheel in the center of the tire, but yet it was big enough that it wouldn't fall thru' the rim hole. We had a pipe run thru' where the axel would go with a coller on the pipe, that turned around that pipe, attached to a long arm and a sharp piece of iron (like a knife blade) attached to the arm, where we wanted to make our cut.
The arm extended out beyond the blade and the tire it's self. You just walked around and around, pushing or pulling on the arm and the blade always followed the same path and the iron wheel put enough pressure on the tire that the cut would open slightly with each pass and the blade could then cut deeper, without hanging up on the edges of the rubber tire. We never used oil but I'll bet oil or liquid soap would help also.
Not much effort needed, just a little time. And not much of that. :wink:
We cut a bunch by setting an old iron mowing machine wheel in the center of the tire, but yet it was big enough that it wouldn't fall thru' the rim hole. We had a pipe run thru' where the axel would go with a coller on the pipe, that turned around that pipe, attached to a long arm and a sharp piece of iron (like a knife blade) attached to the arm, where we wanted to make our cut.
The arm extended out beyond the blade and the tire it's self. You just walked around and around, pushing or pulling on the arm and the blade always followed the same path and the iron wheel put enough pressure on the tire that the cut would open slightly with each pass and the blade could then cut deeper, without hanging up on the edges of the rubber tire. We never used oil but I'll bet oil or liquid soap would help also.
Not much effort needed, just a little time. And not much of that. :wink:
foreman
Active member
I use a sawsall and handyman jacks. Drill a 1" hole so you can start your cut with a sawsall, after you cut a bit put handyman jack under the bead and jack up as nessasary, if need be use more than one jack or use a pipe and chain from your loader bucket to lift bead as you cut oil won't hurt nothing but always keep good down pressure on your sawsall keep sawsall pushed against the tire good so the saw don't get to jumping. Use a Bimetal cutting blade usaully 12 teeth per inch. This is what I do.
Jinglebob
Well-known member
foreman said:I use a sawsall and handyman jacks. Drill a 1" hole so you can start your cut with a sawsall, after you cut a bit put handyman jack under the bead and jack up as nessasary, if need be use more than one jack or use a pipe and chain from your loader bucket to lift bead as you cut oil won't hurt nothing but always keep good down pressure on your sawsall keep sawsall pushed against the tire good so the saw don't get to jumping. Use a Bimetal cutting blade usaully 12 teeth per inch. This is what I do.
I'd forgot about the tractor loader and chain. I've done it the same way, but with a knife as I didn't have a sawzall.
Anything that keeps some pressure on the cut in the rubber, will work.