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Electric fencers

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I HAVE NEVER HERD OF COPPER GROUND RODS BEING USED FOR ELECTRIC FENCING. COPPER WILL HAVE A CHEMICAL REACTION WITH THE MOIST SOIL, MAKING YOUR GROUNDING USELESS. GROUND RODS SHOULD ALWAYS BE GALVANIZED. CHECK THE GROUND RODS ON YOUR HOUSE, BARN ETC. TO SEE.[/quote]

Not sure where you heard of this or dreamed it up.

Copper ground rods are REQUIRED for your house wiring........
They are copper clad, meaning copper coating over steel
Copper is used because it is more conductive than steel or galvanized steel.

The same reason aluminum elec fence wire is better than galv.
 
johndeerefarmer said:
I HAVE NEVER HERD OF COPPER GROUND RODS BEING USED FOR ELECTRIC FENCING. COPPER WILL HAVE A CHEMICAL REACTION WITH THE MOIST SOIL, MAKING YOUR GROUNDING USELESS. GROUND RODS SHOULD ALWAYS BE GALVANIZED. CHECK THE GROUND RODS ON YOUR HOUSE, BARN ETC. TO SEE.
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Not sure where you heard of this or dreamed it up.

Copper ground rods are REQUIRED for your house wiring........
They are copper clad, meaning copper coating over steel
Copper is used because it is more conductive than steel or galvanized steel.

The same reason aluminum elec fence wire is better than galv.[/quote]

Has anyone in Canada heard of using copper ground rods and not galvanized? :?
 
Pappy,

I see you found this posting. If you read it all you will see that there are a lot of electric fences out there. If you have any good ideas we would all like to read them. I figure the day I quit learning will be when they lower me into the groung and if you watch "Desperate housewives" possibly that is when I will learn more than ever.
 
I have a couple 110 gallaghers and several 12 volt Gallaghers. Gallaghers come from New Zealand, and NZ made a big deal about rejecting US military ships from their ports back in the late 80s, and I haven't bought any Gallaghers since, nor Allflex tags either -YTex are superrior anyway.
This tells you something about Gallaghers, they are good equipment. International and speedrite are pretty good and considerably cheaper.
 
Brad S said:
I have a couple 110 gallaghers and several 12 volt Gallaghers. Gallaghers come from New Zealand, and NZ made a big deal about rejecting US military ships from their ports back in the late 80s, and I haven't bought any Gallaghers since, nor Allflex tags either -YTex are superrior anyway.
This tells you something about Gallaghers, they are good equipment. International and speedrite are pretty good and considerably cheaper.
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You know, I had it in my mind that I was going to buy a Gallagher fencer and took the one that they recommended to test it on my fence and I couldn't get the voltage high enough that I would have been comfortable putting my bulls in two opposite fences to keep them separated. I tested one of those blue Parmak fencers and was getting the same or better voltage as I was on the Parmak so I ended up buying a second Parmak fencer and although I'm running two fencers and had to split my fence, it was still cheaper and better than buying a Gallagher.
 
George said:
Pappy,

I see you found this posting. If you read it all you will see that there are a lot of electric fences out there. If you have any good ideas we would all like to read them. I figure the day I quit learning will be when they lower me into the groung and if you watch "Desperate housewives" possibly that is when I will learn more than ever.
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Thanks for your message. I would love to discuss any fencing problems or energizers. What is obvious is there are differences between standards in Canada(east and west) and in the US. I am a strong believer that the best fencers are either Stafix or Gallagher. However they are also the most expensive. To offset that they are serviceable. :D
 
I don't know wether to post this under hunters or fences :? but I'm now having a problem with someone using my insulators for target practice. :???:

It is a pain having to run the fences almost daily :x :( ( I check the far runs with a tester each day) When I find low voltage I keep shutting off different runs untill the short goes away then walk the bad section. With the plastic insulators they have the hooks shot off and holes in the rest and dents in the posts. :x

The good part is they have not yet done this in any field with livestock. :eek: :eek: But it lowers or cuts off ( wire shot in two) the power where the livestock is. :x

So far I have only had one calf out - - - almost got hit by the school bus!!! :mad: :mad: And guess who would be liable if an accident is caused. :evil: :evil: :evil:
 
Maybe I missed it somewhere in the past 5 pages, but has anyone heard of Twin Mountain fencers? They're supposed to be American made. A buddy of mine has 2 of 'em for his custom grazin' outift. He got em at a local feed mill, but doesn't know where they get them from. He grazes 1800 steers every summer, and say the Twin Mountain fencers are better than the Gallagher ones - AND CHEAPER BY FAR.
 
George said:
I don't know wether to post this under hunters or fences :? but I'm now having a problem with someone using my insulators for target practice. :???:

It is a pain having to run the fences almost daily :x :( ( I check the far runs with a tester each day) When I find low voltage I keep shutting off different runs untill the short goes away then walk the bad section. With the plastic insulators they have the hooks shot off and holes in the rest and dents in the posts. :x

The good part is they have not yet done this in any field with livestock. :eek: :eek: But it lowers or cuts off ( wire shot in two) the power where the livestock is. :x

So far I have only had one calf out - - - almost got hit by the school bus!!! :mad: :mad: And guess who would be liable if an accident is caused. :evil: :evil: :evil:
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Shot back :twisted: the only thing I can think of is fiberglass post but I would not do it, it would cost to much and they will shot them down as well. :???:
 
PureCountry said:
Maybe I missed it somewhere in the past 5 pages, but has anyone heard of Twin Mountain fencers? They're supposed to be American made. A buddy of mine has 2 of 'em for his custom grazin' outift. He got em at a local feed mill, but doesn't know where they get them from. He grazes 1800 steers every summer, and say the Twin Mountain fencers are better than the Gallagher ones - AND CHEAPER BY FAR.
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Twin Mountain fencers in Canada are now called PFI(professional fencing international). You can buy one by calling Compass Animal Health located in Edmonton, ask for Shane. He will tell you where the nearest dealer is to you.

Twin Mountain(PFI) is a good fencer, but does not compare to Stafix, or Gallagher. Alot of parts in PFI comes from New Zealand, especially the Capacitors. They are cheaper, but not as compact, they are rather heavy.
 
pappy said:
PureCountry said:
Maybe I missed it somewhere in the past 5 pages, but has anyone heard of Twin Mountain fencers? They're supposed to be American made. A buddy of mine has 2 of 'em for his custom grazin' outift. He got em at a local feed mill, but doesn't know where they get them from. He grazes 1800 steers every summer, and say the Twin Mountain fencers are better than the Gallagher ones - AND CHEAPER BY FAR.
Click to expand...

Twin Mountain fencers in Canada are now called PFI(professional fencing international). You can buy one by calling Compass Animal Health located in Edmonton, ask for Shane. He will tell you where the nearest dealer is to you.

Twin Mountain(PFI) is a good fencer, but does not compare to Stafix, or Gallagher. Alot of parts in PFI comes from New Zealand, especially the Capacitors. They are cheaper, but not as compact, they are rather heavy.
Click to expand...

In Saskatchewan, if you are looking for Stafix or Gallagher there is a guy who sells them, and he knows alot about electric fencing. If you need to contact him, send me an email and I can put you intouch with hime.
 
I have had quite a few electric fencers but none so far compares to the Gallagher I now have. I have had it since '95 with zero trouble. Ibelieve it is an M800 model. BTW just because a branch appears to have it grounded, don't pick up the branch ,especially if its a moist day or you will be in for a shock. They cost a little more but are well worth it in my opinion.
 
In todays technology anyone can produce a good charger. :) You need a good support network though as with any other tool. :) I had a Gallagher for several years but it needed repair about every three to five years. :( The last time I could not find anyone in the area to help :eek: so I went to the local TSC franchise ( yes many are not corporate stores but are locally owned) and bought the biggest charger they had :D ( stated to charge up to 150 miles) Still much cheaper than the Gallagher :D :D

That was about 1995 and it has worked without any problems ever since. :D :D

I strongly feel that much like your feed or mineral dealer you need to find a good dealer :) ( might be the same person) and support them - - - if you don't and later have problems you might find the dealer closed up and working at the local WalMart :???: :( :(
 
I just bought a KUBE they are German made I got it through Premier Sheep Equipment.My aunt and uncle have used Premier fencers and products for 20 years and claim their service is the best.

www.premier1supplies.com
 
Seems on the discussion of ground rods, both work fine as long as the rest of the system is not mixed. I included some info from various sites.

From this site.
http://www.ibiblio.org/farming-connection/grazing/features/fencemis.htm
High-tensile, smooth wire, electric fencing is the fastest and most affordable fence that I know about, and its technology has drastically improved over the past 10 years. But many folks are hesitant to use it because they remember old failures -- wires breaking, chargers starting fires, wet vegetation shorting out the fence and other troubles.

With a little commitment and a modest investment in time to learn how to use this new technology, you can save thousands of dollars and hours of maintenance time by making electric fencing work for you. So you won't have to learn the hard way, here are 17 common mistakes that you should avoid:

Poor earth grounding. Lots of folks (including me) still think you can skimp when it comes to adequate earth grounding. What we must all learn to do, is install several ground rods -- at least three that are 6 to 8 feet long, galvanized, and attached with good ground clamps. The electricity must complete a full circle back to the charger through the ground. Poor grounding gives weak shocks.

Using different types of metals. Don't do it. When you hook up steel wire to copper something call electrolysis happens and the metal becomes corroded, making a poor contact and weakening shocking power.
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From http://www.parmakusa.com/Baygard/tips/grounding.htm
A good ground system consists of three six-foot long galvanized ground rods, 1/2 inch thick, spaced 10 feet apart. The ground rods must be connected with insulated cable or galvanized wire attached by means of a ground rod clamp. Simply wrapping a wire around the ground rod makes a poor connection.

Copper ground rods are OK, but connecting galvanized wire to a copper rod will result in corrosion. Eight-foot ground rods are often available, but they are hard to install and don't need to be so long. If you can't find six-foot ground rods, galvanized pipe will work. If you use pipe, be sure to plug the top end to prevent water from collecting inside. Where rocks prevent driving ground rods, bury a long (20+ feet) galvanized pipe in a trench as deep as possible for a ground system.
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http://www.electrobraid.com/manuals/page4.html

2) Install a Good Ground System.
Poor or improper grounding causes 95% of all electric fencing problems. You can have the most powerful energizer in the world, but if you don't have sufficient grounding your fence will not perform. For "best" results use a minimum of three six-foot long copper clad ground rods spaced at least 10 feet apart. Use brass ground rod clamps to attach heavily insulated copper lead-out wire from the energizer to the ground rods. The drier the soil, the more ground rods you may need. We strongly recommend you use a Positive ("hot")/Negative ("cold") system by grounding ("cold") the second-from-the-top strand and electrifying ("hot") the remaining three strands of Braid™. This will ensure the animal receives a shock when it touches both a negative strand and a positive strand at the same time regardless of the soil conditions.

3) The Correct Materials.
Using garden hose insulators, household electrical wire, improper insulators and other materials is not recommended as they will cause increased maintenance and will risk injury to your animals. The use of copper clad ground rods, copper split bolt connectors and copper lead-out wire are required to prevent electrolysis at the electrical connection points. Substituting non-copper materials will: create problems with electrifying the fence; increase maintenance; and reduce the life span of your fence.
 
Someone ask a while back about the fence pulling post in the low areas. :? I bought another 40 acres that butts to me on the south. :) While putting up 2 strands of hot hi tensil on the rough ground I needed a good solution :? but was not going to post it here untill I tried it myself :wink: :wink: - - -it works :eek: :D :D

What I have done is place a concrete block on the ground where we would place a post and then use a corner insulator to hook the fence to it. :D No need for a post at all. :D I don't know why I havent tried this before. :???: I did need to drive a short post thru one block in the bottom of a small gully to keep the water from moving the block.

I always feel good when something cheap and simple works!!!! :!:
 
Bruce C said:
Please remember that it is not legal to use a electric fence on barb wire.
A small child can become tangled and killed ( at least 3 cases are reported from around the world) We use Hallman & Premier 1 with good luck
/www.premier1supplies.com/ Bruce
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While I can agree I did a search ->Barb Wire & Electric Fence

I do not come up with any such "Law" in California - - infact most sites tell you haw to use both.

Where or How you find this Law - Please!
 
We've used Gallagher power fence on our place for over 20 years - the permanent high tensile, the off-set brackets on our old existing fences, and the portable stuff. It works great and I highly recommend it. Gallagher is available in the US and several foreign countries, according to their website: www.gallagherusa.com.

I've worked with the sales reps in Montana and Wyoming and they are excellent. These guys will design your fence for you and give you a list of everything you need. Gallagher is a little more pricey than some other brands, but it has a better quality - and the reps help you (at no cost) just because you use their product! These guys can fence bears out of honey - literally!

We also have some of their stock waterers and are looking at one of their livestock scales. :D :D
 

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