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Fence Brace

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Northern Rancher

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Has anybody ever used one of these-I saw a picture so I built a few. Don't look too hard at the sloppy wire tieoffs.
 
After seeing this type on here a while back I tried a couple this summer. Only difference from yours is that I set the upper end closer to the top of the post. I also cut a little notch into the upper surface of the lower end for the brace wire to grab into, rather than wrapping it around the lower end.

Wouldn't you run the risk of splitting the brace by wrapping the brace wire around the end of the brace?

Oh yeah, and my notch and brace end don't fit as nicely as yours - just don't tell my cows and we'll be fine . . .

But I like that way of setting an end brace.
 
Nope almost everything around here is 3 inch pipe with a horizontal and a diagonal,deep as we can get them.
good luck
 
What is Pl400. I've got a piece of insultube where I notched the brace at the end. They say you can run the wire around a block opf wood at that end too. They are quick to build for sure.
 
a buddy just told me about the fence he built this summer. instead of braced corners, he used concrete railroad ties. one in the corner, and 5 wires pulled as tight as possible...never gave at all. I am gonna give them a whirl on some cross fencing before trying it on perimiter fences.
 
I have built quite a few much like your picture NR. Only difference is I drill hole in the brace about six inches from the notch and run a piece of #9 thru it and wire it to the post. It keeps the brace from slipping out of the notch and doesn't split the wood like nails or spikes. The other thing I do is use a wire tightener on the wire from the post to the end of the brace. You can tighten that wire up and literally watch it push the post in the opposite direction.
 
I've done a lot of those braces. First of all it's very important to get the post deep enough. Next, you want a little bit of lean away from the direction of pull. I use the insultube on the end of the post to keep it from splitting. Next it is important to not have the position on the vertical too high, it should only be 2/3 the height of the top wire. If you want to go higher, you need to have a longer diagonal. I stopped notching the vertical and started using a product called "Vice Bite." This video will give you an idea of how they work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frApH49wpfs

US Distributor http://pasturemgmt.com/vicebite.asp
http://pasturemgmt.com/show_product...cessories&s=Stay+Bracket&i=NEW! Vicebite Stay
 
My top wire is 44 inches and I put a 7' vertical at 30 inches. I imagine from now on I'll just cut a treated rail in half and use 8 foot verticals. I wonder how close to Canada that outfit has a dealer-I guess I could just get some shipped to Montana and pick them up there. They look like an interesting deal-I'm not the greatest notcher some posts look like a deranged beaver had at them.
 
Do you have a number for that United States company that isn't toll free-lots of times we can't reach a 1-800 number from Canada down there.
 
Northern Rancher said:
. . .They look like an interesting deal-I'm not the greatest notcher some posts look like a deranged beaver had at them.

:lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: Then you wouldn't want to see mine - I thought yours looked pretty good!
 
I would agree with Justin. I like to weld a couple of 2" pipe braces between 6" posts, tamp it in dirt, and you and the next generation is done with that corner. I have only used one fence on a temporary basis in the last 10 years. The brace you pictured may be OK for a temporary set up........
 
I've never seen a dug in brace in our country. The PFRA is starting to let contractors just drive in big posts instead of digging in a deadman.We must have different soil because the braces I built in the early 80's still solid-a pounded post is always more solid than a tamped in one I'd think. Steel would be good but they tend to be tough on electric fence seems like they always find a way to arc out. My one pet peeve anywhere is pounding big treated posts for bracing then using something untreated for the cross piece. Now if I could get over my congentital defect of not being able to keep things in a straight line.
 
That's intresting...I appears the post is set........I'm sure you guys have figured out what works where you live. I enjoy stopping as I travel to see how different people do things in different climates. I use the gate levers that the folks in the Nebraska Sandhills use, and really like them. I am the only one in our country, though. Plenty of neighbors have seen & used mine, but stay with the old armstrong (wire loop) system.
 
I hate wire loops-we just use a rope then anybody can open and SHUT the gate.I don't think there's any pain quite as special as catching your shoulder between the gate and the loop. Our neighbors had an old jury rigged boomer to shut their gate-it took off alot of thumbnails over the years. Those gate levers are nice though. A digital camera is handy you can take a pic of all the interesting stuff you see around the country. Another thing you hardly ever see here are steel T posts-I guess it's because of the million acres of trees to make treated ones from-I use them in the swamp if I have to pack them in through the muck.
 

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