Need advice on starting in Cattle

[Mark Reynolds]

It's a lot to take in. Consider reaching out to the NRCS (Natural Resource Conservation Service) to get a GMP (Grazing Management Plan) developed for your land. They have (should have) all the expertise that is needed to develop a plan for you (with your input) that will address most, if not all, issues that you are aware of and issues that they know will occur that you haven't thought of. Also talk to them about your local Soil and Water Conservation District and see if there are field days that you can attend.

I'll tell you a bit about myself now. I can see you are truly interested in learning and want to do this the right way. Do remember, it's your property and you have to be comfortable whit what goes on and is done on it. For example, someone might tell you that rotating you livestock twice a day with 60 seperate pastures is what you HAVE to do to 'correctly' rotate cattle (in their mind) that might be impossible for you or something that you find completely exausting, or too labor and resource intensive for you. The 'correct' method for yourself might be a 5 pasture rotation system where the animals spend a week grazing a pasture and the next 4 weeks rotating through the other four pastures giving the first pasture 4 days rest (this later scenario is where I try to get everyone I work with to start.

I mentioned the NRCS already. Well, I am an NRCS employee. I'm also a grazing specialist within the NRCS. Actually, I'm the state grazing specialist next door to you, in South Carolina. I'm the author of that tech note I posted and have written over 300 personalized (stopped counting at 250) grazing management plans. I'm new to the south. I was previously in Ohio. But the concepts of grazing that are my expertise are what you need. Specifics about a few things such as congo grass, which doesn't grow in Ohio, is what I'm going to be unfamiliar with.

As for buying the old disc and using it, there could be some value in that. As I just indicated I've got to check on congo grass. However, without knowing what it is, it's hard to say. Speculative treatment would be to spray it to kill it, but it might be an annual?. Don't disc it at the wrong time as you could end up planting its seeds for it. If it's perennial, do I need to take a 'spray, smother, spray' approach to it? I'm on holiday leave for the next couple weeks and will actually have more time to address your issues now but will be harder to reach than if I was working in me office.

I just looked up congo grass. It's not that you can't deal with it, but it's not going to be easy, if that is what it is.

Currently, there is no single treatment that effectively eliminates cogongrass infestations. The most commonly used herbicides to treat cogongrass are glyphosate and imazapyr. Repeated applications each year for several years are usually needed for control.

Spray, smother, spray is a definite method I would apply to it. I would also apply frequent mowing to keep it from going to seed. I definitely WOULD NOT use a disc on it as it spreads by rhizomes and running a disk over it would chop the rhizomes into multiple pieces. A very bad thing as each piece of rhizome will then produce a new plant to contend with. A disc in this case will thicken the stand and make it more difficult to deal with than it already is going to be.

Contact your SWCD and see if there is a local and/or state program that can help you with this. NRCS can help as well, but the NRCS programs will move too slow to adequately deal with deal with this based on my experience. I could be wrong, but don't get your hope up with the NRCS.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

A comment on goats. They will pretty much require woven wire fencing, althiugh 5-6 strand high tensile has been known to work. Watch your herd carefully for any individual "Houdini" that constantly gets out and my suggestion is to get rid of this animal as quickly as possible. Individual goats can be problematic, but goats learn relatively quickly from one another. So, if you have one that jumps or climbs fences (they can do both) you will soon have 9-10 that jump and climb fences if you don't do something quickly.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

I'm off and on today. BTW, Happy New Year! So I apologize for the numerous posts instead of one or two. However, each post is a different thought, so the 'break' might be a good thing separating thoughts and allowing them to be considered separately..

You mentioned you need to research grasses. In the Piedmont, you will/should be able to grow either/or/both cool season and warm season grasses. Start your 'research' by learning the difference between these two groups of grasses, and focus on perennial grasses for now. We can discuss annual grasses later. The chief difference between CSG and WSG (Cool and Warm Season Grasses) is that CSG begin their growth earlier in the year (March/April), have a 'summer slump' of slower or even stopped production, and typically a 2nd period of less pronounced growth in the fall (September-November). The WSG typically begin their growth mid May through the end of August. Looking at the growth patterns I just described, you can see how WSG and CSG can compliment each other when part of the same operation. Don't get any hasty ideas about growing them in the same pasture though to compliment that way. As far as I can tell, the jury is still out about trying to grow these two perennials together in the same pasture. Personally, I think it can be done, but it typically isint. The feedback I've gotten from those who have tried it is that it can be done, but its a much more complex juggling act than it appears on the surface.

Probably the first perennial CSG you will come across is tall fescue, or fescue for short. A great many livestock producers have one of the greatest love-hate relationships with this grass you will ever encounter. That is because in terms of 'stockpiled' grazable forage, it is the undisputed king. Stockpiled forage is grass that is allowed to grow from the end of summer to the end of the growing season without being grazed, or deferred from grazing. This stockpiled forage can then be grazed (preferably 'strip grazed') well into winter (until Feb or even early March for tall fescue. The factor that turns fescue into this 'super desirable' grass is also potentially an extreme problem as a feed component during the growing season. This 'factor' is an endophyte which lives symbiotically with the fescue plant. The endophyte is a fungus. The fungus cannot be separated or introduced to the plant itself. Introduction or elimination is done to the seed and only in a laboratory. Elimination can be accomplished by extended storage of the seed, but there isn't good reason to do this in my book as I'll point out. The 'culprit' endophyte is the endophyte species of fungi found in Kentucky 31 tall fescue, a variety of tall fescue that has been around since at least the 1940s and is the most prevalent and aggressive of the tall fescue varieties. There are a couple of tall fescue varieties that have been developed that are endophyte free. These turned out to be 'wimps' and have little to no persistence to grazing and don't stockpile and are killed out during the winter. Enter the 'endophyte alternative' fescue varieties. The culprit endophyte has been replaced in these varieties with an endophyte that is benign to cattle yet offers nearly the same persistence to grazing and stockpile use and winter survivability as KY 31 (Kentucky 31 tall fescue). There are multiple varieties that have been developed for grazing. One of the first offered that is good for grazing is "Max-Q", but there are others that have come along since that are just as good if not possibly better.

Another CSG grass that will work in your area is Orchard grass. There are several varieties of it as well. I'd look for a 'late maturing' variety that will remain more vegetative longer into the growing season. 'Early maturing' varieties are better for hay production.. Timothy is OK as another CSG, but it is best as a hay and is highly sought by horse owners. Timothy does not have much of a fall growth period compared to other CSGs.

Kentucky Bluegrass is a personal favorite of mine, but is not widely used. It has a fine texture which has made it highly desirable for lawns, and as a consequence has been bred to be short and low in production (people don't want to cut their lawn 2-3x per week to keep the jungle at bay. KYBG historically was a grass of high production volume. The fine texture of the grass makes it highly palatable. There are only 3 varieties of KYBG released within the last 45 years that have been done so intended as livestock forage. They are ginger (I heard this on recommened and I also recommend it), Park, and a 3rd variety I don't recall. But their production levels are on the order of 18 inches to two feet, which make them good for forage. KYBG grows longer into the summer months than other CSGs, but is totally unsuitable for stockpile forage.

Your WSG perennials consist of Bermuda grass and Bahia grass. both of these have a huge amount of variation in quality and production levels between improved varieties and 'wild type'. Bremuda has somewhat better forage quality and production than Bahia while Bahia preforms better on wetter, more droughty and sandy, somewhat nutrient deficient and silvopasture conditions than Bermuda.

The CSG and WSG above are the typical 'tame' sod forming grasses you will encounter for forage production in pasture settings and make up the lion's share of pasture grasses you will hear about. There are Native WSG and CSG perennial grasses thstcan and are used for forage that have the added benefit of being beneficial to wildlife. I can expand on this as well if you want/need me to as I have a BS in Wildlife science as well and can discuss these applications.

We need to also talk about soil testing before you attempt to plant any seed. Nothing makes a seeding fail faster than inadaquately prepped soil (and this is way too frequent the case. We can/need to discuss clover and legumes.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

It's a lot to take in. Consider reaching out to the NRCS (Natural Resource Conservation Service) to get a GMP (Grazing Management Plan) developed for your land. They have (should have) all the expertise that is needed to develop a plan for you (with your input) that will address most, if not all, issues that you are aware of and issues that they know will occur that you haven't thought of. Also talk to them about your local Soil and Water Conservation District and see if there are field days that you can attend.

I'll tell you a bit about myself now. I can see you are truly interested in learning and want to do this the right way. Do remember, it's your property and you have to be comfortable whit what goes on and is done on it. For example, someone might tell you that rotating you livestock twice a day with 60 seperate pastures is what you HAVE to do to 'correctly' rotate cattle (in their mind) that might be impossible for you or something that you find completely exausting, or too labor and resource intensive for you. The 'correct' method for yourself might be a 5 pasture rotation system where the animals spend a week grazing a pasture and the next 4 weeks rotating through the other four pastures giving the first pasture 4 days rest (this later scenario is where I try to get everyone I work with to start.

I mentioned the NRCS already. Well, I am an NRCS employee. I'm also a grazing specialist within the NRCS. Actually, I'm the state grazing specialist next door to you, in South Carolina. I'm the author of that tech note I posted and have written over 300 personalized (stopped counting at 250) grazing management plans. I'm new to the south. I was previously in Ohio. But the concepts of grazing that are my expertise are what you need. Specifics about a few things such as congo grass, which doesn't grow in Ohio, is what I'm going to be unfamiliar with.

As for buying the old disc and using it, there could be some value in that. As I just indicated I've got to check on congo grass. However, without knowing what it is, it's hard to say. Speculative treatment would be to spray it to kill it, but it might be an annual?. Don't disc it at the wrong time as you could end up planting its seeds for it. If it's perennial, do I need to take a 'spray, smother, spray' approach to it? I'm on holiday leave for the next couple weeks and will actually have more time to address your issues now but will be harder to reach than if I was working in me office.

Ops! I said 4 DAYS rest. I meant 4 WEEKS rest (28 days) see Never Fail Rules.

 

[DosArroyos]

Get grass established before you buy whatever you want to run on it.It could take a year or two to get a good solid stand of grass.Talk to your local extension agent to see what grass will do best for your particular soil.Don't think that your going to make any money the 1st couple of years either.All you are going to do is spend money.You'll spend half your calf crop feeding thru the Winter.Something to think about too is how are you going to get a few cows bred every year,because it won't make sense to own a bull and have his upkeep for just 3 head of cows.If it were me I'd buy steers just before the end of Winter and sell them in the first sale after Thanksgiving holiday.

 

[Lloyd]

It's a lot to take in. Consider reaching out to the NRCS (Natural Resource Conservation Service) to get a GMP (Grazing Management Plan) developed for your land. They have (should have) all the expertise that is needed to develop a plan for you (with your input) that will address most, if not all, issues that you are aware of and issues that they know will occur that you haven't thought of. Also talk to them about your local Soil and Water Conservation District and see if there are field days that you can attend.

I'll tell you a bit about myself now. I can see you are truly interested in learning and want to do this the right way. Do remember, it's your property and you have to be comfortable whit what goes on and is done on it. For example, someone might tell you that rotating you livestock twice a day with 60 seperate pastures is what you HAVE to do to 'correctly' rotate cattle (in their mind) that might be impossible for you or something that you find completely exausting, or too labor and resource intensive for you. The 'correct' method for yourself might be a 5 pasture rotation system where the animals spend a week grazing a pasture and the next 4 weeks rotating through the other four pastures giving the first pasture 4 days rest (this later scenario is where I try to get everyone I work with to start.

I mentioned the NRCS already. Well, I am an NRCS employee. I'm also a grazing specialist within the NRCS. Actually, I'm the state grazing specialist next door to you, in South Carolina. I'm the author of that tech note I posted and have written over 300 personalized (stopped counting at 250) grazing management plans. I'm new to the south. I was previously in Ohio. But the concepts of grazing that are my expertise are what you need. Specifics about a few things such as congo grass, which doesn't grow in Ohio, is what I'm going to be unfamiliar with.

As for buying the old disc and using it, there could be some value in that. As I just indicated I've got to check on congo grass. However, without knowing what it is, it's hard to say. Speculative treatment would be to spray it to kill it, but it might be an annual?. Don't disc it at the wrong time as you could end up planting its seeds for it. If it's perennial, do I need to take a 'spray, smother, spray' approach to it? I'm on holiday leave for the next couple weeks and will actually have more time to address your issues now but will be harder to reach than if I was working in me office.

Thanks again Mark, well you certainly have the expertise. It sounds like you posted a document or attachment to your original post I don't see it through. Could you link some of your written items that you think most beneficial.

I'm relieved to hear that there are comfortable variations in how and when to rotate and still stay within the 4 rules. I work in healthcare 3 x 12 shifts but often (more than not) work extra. Some days its 4x in a row and I would find that taxing moving the cows at 8pm and try to get to bed at a decent time to do it all over again at work.

I'm excited to get started. I'll reach out to the NRCS and see what it's all about. I would love to start reading up on some of your materials and go from there.

As for the Congo grass, don't worry too much about it unless you want to. From what I know about it. It's an invasive species from outside the US. It has pretty gnarly ribosomes that are hardy. It's very flammable even while green and wherever it's from its adapted to wildfires, because of the ribosomes the surrounding fire eats the vegetation and kills it, and the ribosomes of the Congo grass underground take over the Neiborhood. It's very low in nutrients and the silica content is heavy and cuts even goats' mouth and sheep. I think its perineal. It's pretty patchy on my property there is a lot of it, spraying known patches I hear works. I have heard deep tilling it also works but I'll have to research that again. Anyways just what I know about it.

 

[Lloyd]

Get grass established before you buy whatever you want to run on it.It could take a year or two to get a good solid stand of grass.Talk to your local extension agent to see what grass will do best for your particular soil.Don't think that your going to make any money the 1st couple of years either.All you are going to do is spend money.You'll spend half your calf crop feeding thru the Winter.Something to think about too is how are you going to get a few cows bred every year,because it won't make sense to own a bull and have his upkeep for just 3 head of cows.If it were me I'd buy steers just before the end of Winter and sell them in the first sale after Thanksgiving holiday.

Yeah, i like what you said. I do realize I won't make much the first few years and I would not keep a bull for sure with just a few cows. I would however build up according to pasture establishment etc. My plan is to break even or make a little profit to expand or profit. The main purpose would be for self-sufficiency, good healthy food and for the general love of it. I do realize the first few years will be upfront costs. Thanks for the info I certainly will keep this in mind now about haying in the winter and keeping an unnecessary bull to feed.

General question for anyone though. Is there a way to plan ahead and not hay your cows in the winter. I realize this will most likely be only able to accomplish with well-established pastures and soil. I was thinking of keeping my pasture to cow ratio more favorable to pasture so i can hay the pastures that are just about to get seed head and store it away for the winter. Haying in the winter is my biggest concern on paper. Wit everything so expensive, I think hay bales have been like $60 Ish a bail, no thanks. My neighbor saved the other half of the pastures he rents from my other neighbor to then open up during the short 3–4-month winters out here in NC.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

Thanks again Mark, well you certainly have the expertise. It sounds like you posted a document or attachment to your original post I don't see it through. Could you link some of your written items that you think most beneficial.

I'm relieved to hear that there are comfortable variations in how and when to rotate and still stay within the 4 rules. I work in healthcare 3 x 12 shifts but often (more than not) work extra. Some days its 4x in a row and I would find that taxing moving the cows at 8pm and try to get to bed at a decent time to do it all over again at work.

I'm excited to get started. I'll reach out to the NRCS and see what it's all about. I would love to start reading up on some of your materials and go from there.

As for the Congo grass, don't worry too much about it unless you want to. From what I know about it. It's an invasive species from outside the US. It has pretty gnarly ribosomes that are hardy. It's very flammable even while green and wherever it's from its adapted to wildfires, because of the ribosomes the surrounding fire eats the vegetation and kills it, and the ribosomes of the Congo grass underground take over the Neiborhood. It's very low in nutrients and the silica content is heavy and cuts even goats' mouth and sheep. I think its perineal. It's pretty patchy on my property there is a lot of it, spraying known patches I hear works. I have heard deep tilling it also works but I'll have to research that again. Anyways just what I know about it.

I tried to attach a document. Instead I just made it part of the text. I haven't written a lot, but what I have is usually well received. The 4 'commandments', as you referred to them, is what I authored. What I really only did was take some concepts (the 4) and boil them down into something that anyone could understand from volumes and volumes and books and books of information that makes it seem that you need a PHD in nuclear physics to understand and apply rotational grazing. I think the reason that those that try to research and explain rotational grazing and end up with volumes and volumes of information is that they can only effectively explain it with a science based approach. Science functions on logic and predictability. The problem is that half of grazing management is "art", which has little to no predictability and can't be effectively explained because its not effectively repeatable. Everyone has their own, different version of the 'art' that they only learn from experience. Its the creative aspect of pasture/livestock management and what makes it fun, as you never do the same thing twice. That is what makes doing what I do fun. If that all makes any sense.

I havent done much on the congo grass, but what I've seen has me concerned. In the past, I've referred to invasive species as a 'silent wildfire'. If you ignore it, you will wake up one morning and realize that 75-80% of your useable land area is occupied by this worthless plant that is preventing 75-80% of the forage production possible on your farm. That means you have a 75-80% reduction in the potential of livestock production. Recognize it for the problem it is (or will be) now, while you can do something about it and it has little effect.

95% of what is done in pasture management has more than one (multiple actually) ways of accomplishing it. Be wary of anyone or anything that you are told this is the best" or "only" way to do it. What is the best way for them may be totally wrong for you.

 

[Lloyd]

I tried to attach a document. Instead I just made it part of the text. I haven't written a lot, but what I have is usually well received. The 4 'commandments', as you referred to them, is what I authored. What I really only did was take some concepts (the 4) and boil them down into something that anyone could understand from volumes and volumes and books and books of information that makes it seem that you need a PHD in nuclear physics to understand and apply rotational grazing. I think the reason that those that try to research and explain rotational grazing and end up with volumes and volumes of information is that they can only effectively explain it with a science based approach. Science functions on logic and predictability. The problem is that half of grazing management is "art", which has little to no predictability and can't be effectively explained because its not effectively repeatable. Everyone has their own, different version of the 'art' that they only learn from experience. Its the creative aspect of pasture/livestock management and what makes it fun, as you never do the same thing twice. That is what makes doing what I do fun. If that all makes any sense.

I havent done much on the congo grass, but what I've seen has me concerned. In the past, I've referred to invasive species as a 'silent wildfire'. If you ignore it, you will wake up one morning and realize that 75-80% of your useable land area is occupied by this worthless plant that is preventing 75-80% of the forage production possible on your farm. That means you have a 75-80% reduction in the potential of livestock production. Recognize it for the problem it is (or will be) now, while you can do something about it and it has little effect.

95% of what is done in pasture management has more than one (multiple actually) ways of accomplishing it. Be wary of anyone or anything that you are told this is the best" or "only" way to do it. What is the best way for them may be totally wrong for you.

Yes that makes perfect sense to me. Medicine is also an art so I get that.

Well said I am weary of these invasive species myself. I am motivated and have learned allot so far homesteading I'm sure ill tackle this issue. I'm always thinking of ways to make things work and try to make things more efficient out here. From what I've seen just brush hogging and keeping things cut down has eliminated allot of junk species (or so it seems). The underlying forage and grass seem to take over. However it appears to be Congo grass mostly HAHA. Thanks again TTYL.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

Yes that makes perfect sense to me. Medicine is also an art so I get that.

Well said I am weary of these invasive species myself. I am motivated and have learned allot so far homesteading I'm sure ill tackle this issue. I'm always thinking of ways to make things work and try to make things more efficient out here. From what I've seen just brush hogging and keeping things cut down has eliminated allot of junk species (or so it seems). The underlying forage and grass seem to take over. However it appears to be Congo grass mostly HAHA. Thanks again TTYL.

Your personal method of livestock production will evolve over time. My intention is to help you get started with something that works that you can modify to your preferences over time. The real 'danger' right now for you is starting or doing something that you have to completely start over with or starting out 'too complex'. You can always 'add to' something. Trying to 'take away' is a lot more problematic.

 

[Lloyd]

Your personal method of livestock production will evolve over time. My intention is to help you get started with something that works that you can modify to your preferences over time. The real 'danger' right now for you is starting or doing something that you have to completely start over with or starting out 'too complex'. You can always 'add to' something. Trying to 'take away' is a lot more problematic.

Agreed, I definitely don't want to build something then tear it down and build it the right way. Wise words Mark.

 

[webfoot]

I worked for a conservation district for 20+ years. Actually did work in 3 different districts. As a result I met and worked with a number of district employees, NRCS personal, and extension people. There are some who are great resources. There are others whom I met who are are government employees who couldn't dump water out of a boot if you wrote the instructions on the bottom of the heel. Take the time to choose your resource wisely. Personally I prefer those with real life experience ie: farm or ranch raised or have their fingers in the pie. I don't limit it to that but it is a good starting point to me. A good example of that is Jim Gerrish. He was a pHD researcher for the University of MO and had 150 cows on his own. He is retired now but a lot of his work is in print. I know when I attended workshops. I took what I was being taught and applied it to my own place before trying to convince the public that this was the thing to do.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

I worked for a conservation district for 20+ years. Actually did work in 3 different districts. As a result I met and worked with a number of district employees, NRCS personal, and extension people. There are some who are great resources. There are others whom I met who are are government employees who couldn't dump water out of a boot if you wrote the instructions on the bottom of the heel. Take the time to choose your resource wisely. Personally I prefer those with real life experience ie: farm or ranch raised or have their fingers in the pie. I don't limit it to that but it is a good starting point to me. A good example of that is Jim Gerrish. He was a pHD researcher for the University of MO and had 150 cows on his own. He is retired now but a lot of his work is in print. I know when I attended workshops. I took what I was being taught and applied it to my own place before trying to convince the public that this was the thing to do.

I agree completely about the gamut of extension, district and federal employees. I hope I'm not one of those that can't dump water out of a boot to get to the instructions! I don't try to be something I'm not. I'm upfront with who I am, what I know and what I don't know (I try to learn what I don't know), and who I am not. My 'Achilles heel' here, so to speak, if someone wants to hold it against me (their choice, but I hope they don't) is that I am not a livestock producer myself. I like Jim. He still travels and speaks too.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

Yeah, i like what you said. I do realize I won't make much the first few years and I would not keep a bull for sure with just a few cows. I would however build up according to pasture establishment etc. My plan is to break even or make a little profit to expand or profit. The main purpose would be for self-sufficiency, good healthy food and for the general love of it. I do realize the first few years will be upfront costs. Thanks for the info I certainly will keep this in mind now about haying in the winter and keeping an unnecessary bull to feed.

General question for anyone though. Is there a way to plan ahead and not hay your cows in the winter. I realize this will most likely be only able to accomplish with well-established pastures and soil. I was thinking of keeping my pasture to cow ratio more favorable to pasture so i can hay the pastures that are just about to get seed head and store it away for the winter. Haying in the winter is my biggest concern on paper. Wit everything so expensive, I think hay bales have been like $60 Ish a bail, no thanks. My neighbor saved the other half of the pastures he rents from my other neighbor to then open up during the short 3–4-month winters out here in NC.

In answer to your general question: Yes!

It is called stockpiling and is best accomplished with tall fescue. I think I might have mentioned that. As for hay...... Don't buy equipment and make your on on your tract of land. That IS expensive. However, before you say hay is expensive, consider this, and you I'm sure haven't heard or even conceived of this. There is often more fertilizer value in a bale of hay such that it is cheaper to buy the bale of hay than to purchase the equivalent amount of fertilizer separately. Your local extension agent can help you run the numbers to figure this out. In essence, what this means is that you can buy hay for your livestock, preplace the bales in the field that needs fertilized, strip graze these bales (with or without stockpiled forage in the field as well). Doing this will feed your livestock, get your livestock to distribute the nutrients (manure fertilizer) without a spreading cost to you, and supply you with fertilizer at a cheaper rate than if you were to just purchase the fertilizer alone.

As for the number of animals you can run on your pasture, I use Web Soil Survey (WSS) to arrive at a production level based on the soil type you have. This considers the exact resource that you have and isn't using some state or county average production value that may or may not be representative of what you have on your property. WSS is available to the general public, but I haven't met very many individuals (very few) who know how to use it to get production for their pastures. As a general rule of thumb, and you got the numbers right in your first post, figure on 2-3 acres per animal when first starting out.....and go with 3 to err on the side of caution. Remember, I said you can always add, removal is a lot harder. That applies to multiple aspects of raising livestock.

 

[Evans]

I worked for a conservation district for 20+ years. Actually did work in 3 different districts. As a result I met and worked with a number of district employees, NRCS personal, and extension people. There are some who are great resources. There are others whom I met who are are government employees who couldn't dump water out of a boot if you wrote the instructions on the bottom of the heel. Take the time to choose your resource wisely. Personally I prefer those with real life experience ie: farm or ranch raised or have their fingers in the pie. I don't limit it to that but it is a good starting point to me. A good example of that is Jim Gerrish. He was a pHD researcher for the University of MO and had 150 cows on his own. He is retired now but a lot of his work is in print. I know when I attended workshops. I took what I was being taught and applied it to my own place before trying to convince the public that this was the thing to do.

And local knowledge as well. In my area just 30 miles west of me and in hills makes a difference.
Even on my place I think I'm in year 12 of drought I'm doing things that I have never done before. Haha guess I will see in spring if bit works