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New chute

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Nicky

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Well, we bought a hydraulic chute! We hated our manual chute, and found a guy who wanted it, there was a Silencer sitting in Pendleton that had everything we wanted on it, so it's coming today :) If you order one it will take 6 months to get it so it must be a sign.

So I have a few questions for those of you who have hydraulic chutes. We don't have 220 at the barn, and we are going to redo our corrals next year so don't want to go to the trouble and expense of running 220 from the shop to the barn if that's not where we are going to want it. We're checking into getting an extension cord but people are saying that is going to be expensive. Apparently our tractor hydraulics are too powerful (?) so John Deere would have to come out and do something, also the JD guy said he wouldn't run the fluid that is in the chute through his tractor? One of Silencers options is a gas powered hydraulic pump, but of course this came with a electric pump so we'd have to pay shipping both ways.

Any thoughts (well most any) are welcomed.
 
A chord would be expensive(3.50 a foot for my 100 ft welder chord) I don't know about the tractor, I thought you could just turn it down at your remotes and I wouldn't worry about the 1/2 gallon of fluid that would get in your tractor, that sounds like a mechanic that is trying to scare you.

Another option is a solid wire chord. You can't roll it up or kink it, but it would work for a temporary solution and is a lot cheaper. Then when you get set up the way you want it might work to run the power where you are going to set it permanent.
 
I would consider getting a gas generator with 220 on it. A 25 foot cord is around $100 here and you can even run a welder like a small mig from them. You could use it for other stuff that way too. Depending on brand or auction you might get one pretty cheap.
 
Most 220V motors can be rewired to run off 110V, just a higher power bill at the end of the month.

If yours can be rewired it will take a qualified person about 10 minutes, run it that way till the new facilities are built then change it back.

Hope this works for you.
 
would definitly go the gas powered generator route, so many other uses, and so mobile, try to get a honda powered one and enough cord to keep the noise level down. the only reason i say honda is that they are quiet
 
You might find an old Farmhand loader with a PTO pump and tank. A tractor idling with a PTO pump would give you enough volume. When you figure out your locale of your corrals. Figure out a way to have the hydraulic power unit a ways away from the chute. At the local junior college it is in a barn and the chute is very quiet. My Uncle's is on top of his chute and the buzzing gets to be annoying.
 
For what it's worth, our local conservation district bought a Silencer chute for the county to use (and for all us ranchers to borrow for bleeding our cows for brucellosis) and have run probably 10,000 cows thru it and every rancher has plugged it into JD tractors and other tractors with no trouble. In fact, the silencer chute is faster off of a tractor than a 220 or the crappy gas powdered pump with the Honda motor that was supposed to run the chute! Just turn the hydrolics down in the back of the tractor and it works great. And no one seems to mind the JD tractor noise. Cattle are way noisier when running thru the chute along with all the hollering by the cowboys in the back of the allyways!
 
we have a neighbor that used tractor(JD) hydraulics for a couple years and never had an issue. i'd always help when they were working buffalo and the chute never missed. FWIW
 
have older jd tractor's and a few other brands as well you have to watch what you hook up to the 4020's as they have a closed center hydraulic system, blew the pump out of one hooking it up to an orbit motor running a bale conveyor, just my 2 cents worth
 
Thanks for all the advice everyone!.... but it didn't turn out as planned :?

The guy buying our old chute came at noon, just got him loaded up and ready to go and the salesman came with the hydraulic chute. I was visiting with the guy who bought our chute while Mike went and looked at the new one. All of a sudden he was gone into the house. The guy left with our old chute and I went to talk to the salesman...he had told us it was a heavy duty model and turns out it was the rancher model. Which would've been ok but the price he had quoted us was supposed to be for the heavy duty model and he didn't offer to take anything off the price for the next model down (I thought he would). So he's going to find out what he can get the one we thought we getting for, and when it might get here. Which will most likely be after the cows are out on grass next spring. :(

So, not only do we not have a new hydraulic chute but we have to get the old Teco chute that I grew up with from our leased place:!:
 
Sorry to hear that happened to you, Nicky. But I understand because
those kind of things have happened to us too. You just suck it up
and get through it. :cry: Not much fun, tho.

BMR mentioned the Stampede Steel chutes. I've heard nothing but good
about them. About their whole set up, actually.
 
hayguy said:
have older jd tractor's and a few other brands as well you have to watch what you hook up to the 4020's as they have a closed center hydraulic system, blew the pump out of one hooking it up to an orbit motor running a bale conveyor, just my 2 cents worth
Click to expand...

that sounds odd. these got kinda a radial pump, it's a 'demand pump'---they'll put out about 3 gpm all the time, steering, brakes, etc.

it's kinda a piston pump, w/o connecting rods---kinda a cam pushes on the pistons, they make more when you need more. i've run hyrd motor a certain amount with 3010--never had any pump trouble.

but--my land plane has a shop built hydralic valve, you put juice to it all the time, it runs bowl up and down as needed---a cable affair tells it when to cut and fill. anyhow, the valve is for open center system. you plug a J.D. into it and tie a valve open, and land plane will not work and hoses coming off tractor get hotter than hell. did you have a valve between orbit motor and j.d. hyralics?
 
littlejoe said:
hayguy said:
have older jd tractor's and a few other brands as well you have to watch what you hook up to the 4020's as they have a closed center hydraulic system, blew the pump out of one hooking it up to an orbit motor running a bale conveyor, just my 2 cents worth
Click to expand...

that sounds odd. these got kinda a radial pump, it's a 'demand pump'---they'll put out about 3 gpm all the time, steering, brakes, etc.

it's kinda a piston pump, w/o connecting rods---kinda a cam pushes on the pistons, they make more when you need more. i've run hyrd motor a certain amount with 3010--never had any pump trouble.

but--my land plane has a shop built hydralic valve, you put juice to it all the time, it runs bowl up and down as needed---a cable affair tells it when to cut and fill. anyhow, the valve is for open center system. you plug a J.D. into it and tie a valve open, and land plane will not work and hoses coming off tractor get hotter than hell. did you have a valve between orbit motor and j.d. hyralics?
Click to expand...


yes there is a flow control valve on the bale conveyor. i just run it now with an open center tractor. same thing with my tractor operated hydraulic post pounder. so anything restricting flow and terminating or limiting return is a problem?
 
hayguy said:
littlejoe said:
hayguy said:
have older jd tractor's and a few other brands as well you have to watch what you hook up to the 4020's as they have a closed center hydraulic system, blew the pump out of one hooking it up to an orbit motor running a bale conveyor, just my 2 cents worth
Click to expand...

that sounds odd. these got kinda a radial pump, it's a 'demand pump'---they'll put out about 3 gpm all the time, steering, brakes, etc.

it's kinda a piston pump, w/o connecting rods---kinda a cam pushes on the pistons, they make more when you need more. i've run hyrd motor a certain amount with 3010--never had any pump trouble.

but--my land plane has a shop built hydralic valve, you put juice to it all the time, it runs bowl up and down as needed---a cable affair tells it when to cut and fill. anyhow, the valve is for open center system. you plug a J.D. into it and tie a valve open, and land plane will not work and hoses coming off tractor get hotter than hell. did you have a valve between orbit motor and j.d. hyralics?
Click to expand...


yes there is a flow control valve on the bale conveyor. i just run it now with an open center tractor. same thing with my tractor operated hydraulic post pounder. so anything restricting flow and terminating or limiting return is a problem?
Click to expand...

I don't know---just give my limited experience. On post drivers, I got the big shaver yrs ago--for use on J.D.'s. So bought a closed center valve with it. Found out on the 3010 it was way faster to bypass quick couplers. I ran a hydr line right from pressure manifold on rt side of engine for input. I now use same driver on 4055. I quick coupler into it---but on both tractors, I returned into where you add hyr oil, using a bell reducer. I used to run the 3010 2 or 3 gallons overfilled---dealer said it wouldn't hurt, this cut down on 'momentarilly starving' the pump and eliminated 'lag time'. 3010 is an industrial one---yellow---25 gpm pump on it. Driver does hit quite a bit harder when you don't restrict return. One more tip for fencers: On shaver springs, when you replace them, you gotta kinda condition them----stetch new springs maybe 6", then go back down. Then maybe 10", etc. Finally go to full stroke. They'll last way longer---havn't replaced one in yrs.
 
When I started to read the replies to Mike and said we could turn down the remotes....he said "duh, I knew that :oops: :oops: " Just caught up in the moment I guess. Still haven't heard from the salesman. Tried to call the guy Jody told me about but no answer. The Stampede have the sissor headgate don't they? And I think they are about as much as a Silencer.
 

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