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Question on electric fences

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Shortgrass

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I know nothing about electric fences. My neighbor runs his bulls against a 4 wire fence that seperates us. I would like to put hot cows in that pasture. Will a hot wire keep his bulls out? There is a mile of fence that would need a hot wire on top. What size and kind of charger? Polywire, polyrope or wire? I would need this for about 30 days per year in the month of May. Any tips from experienced hands would be appreciated.
 
Yes it will work as long as they are hot wire trained. A good electric fence will stop cattle faster than a 5 strand barb wire fence most times. I would use high tensile wire and make it permanent. Make sure you use insulators on each fence post.
The key to a good electric fence is your ground, and I usually use 4-5 ground rods at least 7 feet in the ground (depending on your area) and get a good fencer . Our whole place is separated by hot wire and my bull pen is enclosed mostly by hot wire and I never have a problem.
 
You will not only have to keep the bulls out, but some cows will try to get in with the bulls during estrus.

Have found cows in the bull pasture a many a morning.

The top strand and the middle strand should do it. Wire. Barbed wire.

If you have metal posts, let the bottom strand be the gound. That way, the ground travels the length of the fence and will work throughout in dry weather.
 
Northern Rancher said:
The biggest you can afford!!!
Click to expand...

Amen.

Don't get a 6 volt. Get a 12v and buy the highest output solar panel battery charger you can afford. (5-10 watts - Need not be built into the charger - In Fact, preferably not.)

Get a good deep cycle battery and you'll be good to go.
 
Shortgrass, I prefer a Staffix or Speedrite fencer. They are either 12v or 110v. I build my own solar setups. I prefer a 25 mile fencer, even on that short of a stretch of fence. The hotter it is the less likely something is to go through it. I would probably run a hot wire along the top. If your neighbor doesn't like the idea of it on his side put it on your side. Most criters will reach over a fence before the jump unless something is in hot pursuit. If you run a ground rod for every joule of output you should have sufficient ground, depending on moisture conditions, the other thing that will help is to connect the top barbed strand to your ground also. If a bull leans into that top strand and gets with in an inch of the hot wire you will hear it snap for a half mile. Check your PM's I might be able to help you get set up.
 
I'm wondering if there is a hot enough electric charge to keep a bull away from cows in heat? If there is I'd say it's because the bull is used to and respects the charge he could get from going to far.
 
We run 5 chargers every summer around our breeding fields for the express purpose of keeping bulls on the right side of the wire. We just electrify the top barbed wire strand (no insulators but should be).... just have to make sure there is nothing that will short it out. Works well as we calve later & a grazing association next to us turns out 15-20 bulls early. Avoids a lot of wrecks. 12 volt chargers are fine but a plug in type is best if power is available. Chose as large a fencer as you are comfortable with paying for, ground it properly and it'll work well. Bulls usually want to either jump or fight through wire ......electricity does wonders in destroying the urge!
 
CattleArmy said:
I'm wondering if there is a hot enough electric charge to keep a bull away from cows in heat? If there is I'd say it's because the bull is used to and respects the charge he could get from going to far.
Click to expand...

Our calves are trained from day one, so yes you are correct. Once they know what the fence looks like and get a jolt from it, even in a power outage they have respect for the fence. (don't push your luck though , we get the generator going asap :wink: ) .
 
When I worked for Utah State University back in the day, we took a brush beater and made paths for 12 small calving parcels in an 80 acre pasture for a test they ran. Then we installed electric fence to subdivide it all. The next spring after it all came out, you couldnt drive a cow across one of those fence lines we brushbeat. Once they learn what a fence does, they don't often test it. I agree what everyone says about grounding. In dry country, run a ground wire too or use a barb as a ground. Snap, Crackle, Pop! :D
 
Plug in chargers are the best. I like my solar chargers however the dry cell battery can not be recharged to the best of my knowledge. Try to keep mosture and bugs out of the solar chargers. Try to get ones with the larger joles of charge. Grounding is also important. Keep extra fuses for the electric chargers around. Try to place the extra fuse on or near the charger. Finding good quality electric fence wire is starting to be a challege.
Its much easier to put up a elelctirc fence than keep your or the neigbors bull where they need to be.
 
I've been a fan of Gallagher chargers, I have two MBX 2500 Smart chargers, a M1800, M400, M80 and 3 Solar. I think a S90, and two S30. One charger would be big enough for everything but my property is scattered. The MBX adjusts the joules output automatically for what is needed up to 25. It has 4 LCD displays to measure Joules, Fence Voltage, Charger Voltage, Ground Voltage. You can plug in an alarm to go off if Fence voltage is too low or ground is too high. It also has a wire to hook up to a battery to use as a backup if you loose power. You can hook a solar panel up to it if you want to run just battery. One of the best features is a remote to shut it off anywhere on the fenceline. It sends a signal though the wire, great while fixing stuff. The downside is that the remote is a little big, and doesn't have a display for measuring voltage and fault finding like the Speedrite, so I carry Gallagher's SmartFix as well. If Gallagher would make a combination handheld compact unit, they'd have a great product. It could just be added, I think they make one for a bigger charger not available in this country though.

For wire I use GalFan from Kencove fence. I think it's 180K psi.
 
I would recommend going with a high tensile wire. It is stronger than conventional fencing and will do the trick confining your horses and other livestock you may have. You will be able to build fewer line posts and the need to tie off every corner. You can get poly spacers for longer fences which you will need fewer posts and lowers your cost. This website has a great help and tutorial section with videos and pics showing what you would need for whatever you are looking for @ tips on how to build electric fences
 
Just a disclaimer, I absolutely do not reccomend straight high tensile wire fence for horses. When they run they can't see it, when they go through it, it will cut through their thin skin like a cheese slicer. To utilize all the advantages of high tensile wire you can go with a product like HotCote from Kencove. http://www.kencove.com/fence/Hotcote+(Electric)_detail_WSWH.php

I have a facebook page dedicated to fencing
http://www.benfencin.com

I also now have a YouTube channel to start reviewing products:
http://www.youtube.com/user/BenFencin

For line posts I like to use composite posts and droppers made by PasturePro. http://www.pasturepro.com

I am also going to stop using wrap around insulators for uncoated high tensile wire and go back to end strain insulators. I asked Strainrite New Zealand why everyone over there uses end strains and not wraps. They told me that the tube causes a capillary action bringing water in and doesn't shed the water. The galvanized coating needs carbon dioxide to properly oxidize and protect the wire. When it can't dry out this doesn't happen and it corrodes up to 50 times faster.

Also, yellow insulators=waste of money due to repeated replacement cost.
 
I have a Stafix 6xi and I don't recall the joules but it is suposed to hold deer and bear! Only once has a deer ran through it and cattle fairly well stay away from it. If you think you need a bigger fencer Staffix can help you there!!! Mel
 
We have a Speedrite 6000i which is the same as the 6xi (except for costing 1/3 less) and it is a great fencer. We also runs a 36000r mains fencer that will stop a pickup truck (about 6 times bigger than the 6000), and we run a battery powered 9000 that I have on a 100W solar panel. The 6000 and the 36000 are my favourites as they have the remote feature. The 9000 is the best battery powered fencer we have ever owned (Gallaghers included)
 
I will likely be switching to StaFix or Speedrite (both TruTest) going forward. They have the ability to run your fence bi-polar. They also have an all-in-one remote and fence tester. Has Gallagher bought out tru- test? Kencove now has a line o f chargers with remotes that are inexpensive and made in the USA ( at least for now). I'm not willing to try theirs out ( unless I get a demo) until they're proven.
Gallagher advertises STORED joules, StaFix and Speedrite advertise OUTPUT joules. Output is what matters.
 
Mike said:
You will not only have to keep the bulls out, but some cows will try to get in with the bulls during estrus.

Have found cows in the bull pasture a many a morning.

The top strand and the middle strand should do it. Wire. Barbed wire.

If you have metal posts, let the bottom strand be the gound. That way, the ground travels the length of the fence and will work throughout in dry weather.
Click to expand...

I don't know about your area but in Indiana you can face jail time for a hot barbed wire!

If an animal gets caught up it it they can be terribly injured. I have about 5 miles of hot Hi-tensil and the largest charger I could find ( 12.5 jules ) so the barbs are not needed but the DNR has pictures of deer caught in hot barbs and if a DNR officer finds hot barbs you will get a fine ( up to $5,000.00 ) the first time and 6 months the second time! They also have the power to take your livestock.
 

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