gearhead
Well-known member
Heavy duties have tapered bearings, inner and outer and 1/2 tons have flat bearings, one per axle. The flat bearings are small and not a lot of surface area, whereas taper bearings by design have far more surface area.
Stock trailer load with a half ton
- Thread starter Bamacowboy9313
- Start date
Bruce
Well-known member
Double the weight - double the stopping distance
Double the speed - 4 x the stopping distance (or maybe it's 8 x ............been 20 yr's since I took an air brake course
Double the speed - 4 x the stopping distance (or maybe it's 8 x ............been 20 yr's since I took an air brake course
John SD
Well-known member
gearhead said:
Perhaps another way to 'splain it:
1/2 tons transmit the power AND carry the weight on their axles.
Heavy duties only transmit the power through the axle. HD axles do not carry the weight on because the HD has a "full-floating" axle with a spindle hub assembly. The spindle has larger bearings than a 1/2 ton axle and actually carries the weight.
Clear as mud?
IMO, one of the most useful and cost effective things you could do to "beef up" your 1/2 ton rear suspension is to put a Timbren kit on your pickup.
Timbrens work much like air bags without the cost or complexity. I have them on a couple pickups and am well satisfied with their performance and durability. http://www.timbren.com
I have a 99 Silverado 1/2 ton short bed with an Extra cab and pulled a 16 foot gooseneck Feather lite from San Diego to Tulare, and San Diego to Yerington NV and back for several years. The truck had airbags, and trailer breaks, I hauled 4 calves (#600) and 24 squares of hay back from Yerington (500 mls) you have to drive smart and plan ahead. I could haul 4 cows or 8 calves (#600) easy, the motor you have is the same I have, it will do the job fine.
Keep the weight evenly distributed, if you have a divider, split the load.
We hauled 3 calves and all of our tack to 6 shows a year. The average distance was 300 miles one way and up over the Grapevine, we loaded the calves in the front and all the rest in the back. The 4 disc brakes help, but you still need to drive ahead of yourself to keep out of situations that can get hairy. It is usually the other guy that gets you in trouble so you really need to watch what is going on around you so they don't get you in a jam.
I can say now that we have the 3/4 heavy with the Allison trans I hate using the 1/2 ton unless I just have to, but will in a pinch.
Keep the weight evenly distributed, if you have a divider, split the load.
We hauled 3 calves and all of our tack to 6 shows a year. The average distance was 300 miles one way and up over the Grapevine, we loaded the calves in the front and all the rest in the back. The 4 disc brakes help, but you still need to drive ahead of yourself to keep out of situations that can get hairy. It is usually the other guy that gets you in trouble so you really need to watch what is going on around you so they don't get you in a jam.
I can say now that we have the 3/4 heavy with the Allison trans I hate using the 1/2 ton unless I just have to, but will in a pinch.
loomixguy
Well-known member
Why go looking for trouble? There is a huge difference in what you CAN do versus what you can do SAFELY. Remember, you have to look our for your fellow motorists when on the road.
My old rule of thumb was a 20 ft. stock trailer required a one ton truck. The old pickups, 60's and 70's, you could use a 3/4 ton to pull a 20 footer. The big problem today is most folks think an "HD" or any pickup with a diesel engine is a damned Peterbilt, so they overload and pull way bigger and heavier loads and trailers than they have any business doing. Eventually it will catch up with them, and unfortunately, it sometimes catches up with the vehicle they are meeting or passing.
Get the right vehicle for the job. Be safe....don't be a statistic.
FWIW.
My old rule of thumb was a 20 ft. stock trailer required a one ton truck. The old pickups, 60's and 70's, you could use a 3/4 ton to pull a 20 footer. The big problem today is most folks think an "HD" or any pickup with a diesel engine is a damned Peterbilt, so they overload and pull way bigger and heavier loads and trailers than they have any business doing. Eventually it will catch up with them, and unfortunately, it sometimes catches up with the vehicle they are meeting or passing.
Get the right vehicle for the job. Be safe....don't be a statistic.
FWIW.
Faster horses
Well-known member
loomixguy said:
:agree:
Well said, loomixguy.
Hayguy
Well-known member
x2
VCC said:
I'm thinking of getting an extended cab 3/4ton or 1 ton ( need room for the Grandkids in the backseat) but I have not been looking at shortbeds as I thought I would get the goosneck into the cab on sharp turns. Can you make a reasonable turn with a short bed??
Faster horses
Well-known member
George said:
Mr. FH doesn't think so.......
You might be okay 10 times, but the 11th time might get you.
That's what happened to our daughter with the shortbed pulling a
gooseneck.
Faster horses said:George said:
Mr. FH doesn't think so.......
You might be okay 10 times, but the 11th time might get you.
That's what happened to our daughter with the shortbed pulling a
gooseneck.
Thanks - - - that is about what I've been thinking - - - but I can be taught so I will continue thinking I need a long bed.
This country must have lots of GREAT drivers. I would say there are more short box pickups pulling trailers, then long. Not that I would do it, but there are lots that do. If you have a BIG,SQUARE nosed trailer, it doesn't work so well. B&W makes a ball that is set back also.
With the 37' W&W square nosed trailer I have I feel it would be easy to get in trouble.
If I ever trade trailers I might make this a consideration on the new one.
I have not used the neck for hauling for decades - - - I used to buy feeder pigs and I would fill the neck with the light weights ( we had to lift them in and out ) then the three compartments with heavier ones and still stay at a reasonable weight.
I only pull a couple of time a year now instead of several times a week. I could get by with a short bed but what happens if one of the Dump truck drivers wants to borrow it - - - I can see a problem.
If I ever trade trailers I might make this a consideration on the new one.
I have not used the neck for hauling for decades - - - I used to buy feeder pigs and I would fill the neck with the light weights ( we had to lift them in and out ) then the three compartments with heavier ones and still stay at a reasonable weight.
I only pull a couple of time a year now instead of several times a week. I could get by with a short bed but what happens if one of the Dump truck drivers wants to borrow it - - - I can see a problem.
katrina
Well-known member
Faster horses said:George said:
Mr. FH doesn't think so.......
You might be okay 10 times, but the 11th time might get you.
That's what happened to our daughter with the shortbed pulling a
gooseneck.
Ditto :agree: :wave:
George said:Faster horses said:George said:
Mr. FH doesn't think so.......
You might be okay 10 times, but the 11th time might get you.
That's what happened to our daughter with the shortbed pulling a
gooseneck.
Thanks - - - that is about what I've been thinking - - - but I can be taught so I will continue thinking I need a long bed.
3/4 ton shortbed with a 16' gooseneck. The Norton has a V-shaped front. Because of where we pull I need a short unit. I have had the back end of the trailer (purposely) past the door of the truck. I don't think a square nose would do that, so I can see the long bed for those kind of trailers.
Unless they have a dually, most people have crew cabs with short beds around here. We have allot of people who haul their 5th wheels with their short beds, but they can be adjusted when manovering. The feather lite does taper at the nose that helps. I can do 90% with the truck and trailer to more than that I could get into trouble. The thing about the Chevy short bed is the fuel tank is only 24 gallons the long bed carries 36 or something like that, the extra fuel would be nice.
The heavy duty ¾ ton is a crew cab short bed as well, knock on wood, over 10 years with a short bed and no mishaps. I do try and figure out my plan of attack prior to getting in to a jam, it still happens but I've gotten out of them so far. (wife has gotten me in more than a few, fair grounds can be the worst places for trailers)
The heavy duty ¾ ton is a crew cab short bed as well, knock on wood, over 10 years with a short bed and no mishaps. I do try and figure out my plan of attack prior to getting in to a jam, it still happens but I've gotten out of them so far. (wife has gotten me in more than a few, fair grounds can be the worst places for trailers)
Saddleup
Well-known member
I have a short box dodge diesel 3/4ton 4x4 6 spd and pull both a 16 ft stock trailer and a 28 ft living quarter 8 wide square nosed 3 horse trailer, with a gooseneck hitch. i have the b&w set up and puchased the 5 inch ball extender for the l/q trailer. I still have to be carefull on sharp turns, but the five inches has made a big difference in the turning radius. Pin weight is still the same, however am thinking of putting air bags on truck for a bit more level pulling. All in all works it works fine for me, though I have learned to driver just a bit slower towing the l/q trailer, as i do believe that I dont have the stopping ability nor stability I would have if the truck was a dually,