frenchie
Well-known member
Anyone here puting up baleage with a Vermeer baler. Dealer claims any Vermeer baler can do baleage.Your thoughts.
vermeer balers
- Thread starter frenchie
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Shelly
Well-known member
Are you meaning silage bales? If so, then yeah we've done it. You just have to make your bales alot smaller.
frenchie
Well-known member
Shelly said:
Thats what I mean.Do you wrap bales in rows or individually. Just curious.
TimH
Well-known member
We've made thousands of silage bales with our Vermeer Super J baler. No problems at all.
I had a look at a new "M" model baler, on a dealer lot. It has two small augers on either side of the extra wide pickup. It looked to me like wet silage material might tend to wrap on these augers. Maybe not.
I had a look at a new "M" model baler, on a dealer lot. It has two small augers on either side of the extra wide pickup. It looked to me like wet silage material might tend to wrap on these augers. Maybe not.
frenchie
Well-known member
TimH said:We've made thousands of silage bales with our Vermeer Super J baler. No problems at all.
I had a look at a new "M" model baler, on a dealer lot. It has two small augers on either side of the extra wide pickup. It looked to me like wet silage material might tend to wrap on these augers. Maybe not.
TimH twine or net wrap ? Looking at a 555XL or a 554XL.
Shelly
Well-known member
frenchie said:
We wrapped them in rows. Hubby set the baler to make 3x5's, longer than they are high but the wrapper still managed to do a good job. We only used twine on ours.
Hay DR
Member
frenchie said:
Any Vermeer baler from the Super I balers on will bale haylage. The most popular bale size to make haylage is a 4'x4' bale. The bales at 60% moisture can weigh 2000+ Lbs so anything any larger is harder to handle.
Hay Equipment Headquarters
I think I need to start rolling baleage. This rain cured hay is killing me. I bet I could cut one day and roll the next with that thing.
I need a new bailer.
what does one of those things run.
What do I need to know about feeding baleage?
I need a new bailer.
what does one of those things run.
What do I need to know about feeding baleage?
Faster horses
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The Vermeer baler pictured is the Rebel series. I know from helping with Vermeer advertising here locally that the Rebel series is for people that don't have to go over as many acres, and therefore is a moderately priced line of balers.
Faster horses
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Ah, you might be suprised. It's green isn't it? :wink:
Masseyman
Member
I've run into a new problem and am looking for some considered input.
I'm baling Haylage with my Vermeer 504i.
The machine is turning four belts, two 14 inchers on the outsides and two 6 inchers in the middle.
Yesterday about half way thru my mowed acres I shredded an outside belt. The belts are laced with the OEM "Clipper" style laces. The lace split out of the belt ends like a zipper.
I took my damaged belt over to the local JD dealer (only guys with a repair shop in the state). Their in stock repair lacing is the Alligator type.
Now, I've seen the ads for these new lacings but had never used em and didn't have an opinion one way or another And I wanted the repair done now. So I paid em for the work, went back home, threaded the belt and proceeded to go back to work.
During the course of baling I noticed that the repaired belt was tracking a bit to one side but pressed on.
On the next to last bale I looked back and observed that the lace on the new belt had begun to part! I shut down, dumped the bale and inspected the situation. The friction on the belt guide had resulted in the lace pin being yanked out of the rubbing end of the lacing and mangled it.
First, in making the repair the shop had trimmed about an inch and a half off my belt length. That may or may not have had something to do with the tracking to one side...
But, it occurs to me that the Clipper lacing is much more flexible and is able to allow the belt to "roll" up on itself or rub on a belt guide without much affect on the lacing. The Alligator lacing however is pretty darn stiff and is held together with a rigid wire type rod which is not able to flex at all.
So, when the belt tracks to one side and rubs on a belt guide the Alligator lacing is probably going to have immediate damage. They don't tell you that in the commercials for the product.
I've never run Deere or NH round balers. Do they have solid metal belt guides to keep the belts on course too?
Seems like I'm going to have to find a belt shop that can do Clipper lacing.
Any other thoughts on what I'm dealing with?
I'm baling Haylage with my Vermeer 504i.
The machine is turning four belts, two 14 inchers on the outsides and two 6 inchers in the middle.
Yesterday about half way thru my mowed acres I shredded an outside belt. The belts are laced with the OEM "Clipper" style laces. The lace split out of the belt ends like a zipper.
I took my damaged belt over to the local JD dealer (only guys with a repair shop in the state). Their in stock repair lacing is the Alligator type.
Now, I've seen the ads for these new lacings but had never used em and didn't have an opinion one way or another And I wanted the repair done now. So I paid em for the work, went back home, threaded the belt and proceeded to go back to work.
During the course of baling I noticed that the repaired belt was tracking a bit to one side but pressed on.
On the next to last bale I looked back and observed that the lace on the new belt had begun to part! I shut down, dumped the bale and inspected the situation. The friction on the belt guide had resulted in the lace pin being yanked out of the rubbing end of the lacing and mangled it.
First, in making the repair the shop had trimmed about an inch and a half off my belt length. That may or may not have had something to do with the tracking to one side...
But, it occurs to me that the Clipper lacing is much more flexible and is able to allow the belt to "roll" up on itself or rub on a belt guide without much affect on the lacing. The Alligator lacing however is pretty darn stiff and is held together with a rigid wire type rod which is not able to flex at all.
So, when the belt tracks to one side and rubs on a belt guide the Alligator lacing is probably going to have immediate damage. They don't tell you that in the commercials for the product.
I've never run Deere or NH round balers. Do they have solid metal belt guides to keep the belts on course too?
Seems like I'm going to have to find a belt shop that can do Clipper lacing.
Any other thoughts on what I'm dealing with?
littlejoe
Well-known member
I bought a used j.d. 535.
had lotsa trouble with the belts.
and it seemed that new splices didn't last long.
Duh! Belt gets about 1 1/2" inch shorter every splice, like you said, puts more pressure on it.
J.D. has 2 different lengths of belts, even w/o splicing, they evidently get shorter with time. So, pulled all the belts out---the 'long' ones were just long enuf to trim and make uniform short ones outa--made them maximum 'short' length. (I don't think you want to take All the belts out at once, by the way) Then spliced piece into the short ones to make them the maximum 'long' length. When you splice in a piece, you want to make it long enough that both splices ain't on rollers at same time.
Cut way down on trouble---pretty old baler and i'm still running original belts.
You can buy your own splicer, by the way. I've got the old type, newer alligator looks better---I put a vise on baler where jack stores---
ps---ya, J.D. has kinda belt guides, but if belt is square cut and right length, not much pressure there--just like on a thrashing machine, flat belts tend to run to tite side----I kinda taper the end of the 'follower' on the splice----
had lotsa trouble with the belts.
and it seemed that new splices didn't last long.
Duh! Belt gets about 1 1/2" inch shorter every splice, like you said, puts more pressure on it.
J.D. has 2 different lengths of belts, even w/o splicing, they evidently get shorter with time. So, pulled all the belts out---the 'long' ones were just long enuf to trim and make uniform short ones outa--made them maximum 'short' length. (I don't think you want to take All the belts out at once, by the way) Then spliced piece into the short ones to make them the maximum 'long' length. When you splice in a piece, you want to make it long enough that both splices ain't on rollers at same time.
Cut way down on trouble---pretty old baler and i'm still running original belts.
You can buy your own splicer, by the way. I've got the old type, newer alligator looks better---I put a vise on baler where jack stores---
ps---ya, J.D. has kinda belt guides, but if belt is square cut and right length, not much pressure there--just like on a thrashing machine, flat belts tend to run to tite side----I kinda taper the end of the 'follower' on the splice----
Masseyman said:
It is not recomended to run the Clipper and Alligator spliceing on the same belt. http://www.shoupparts.com/ caries the Clipper Splices and a nice little vice splicer. Your best friend when makeing splices is a tape measure and a belt cutter that will square your belts or an old carpenters square. Shoup will also sell short lengts of belt material. On my baler I have a 2 foot section spliced into almost every belt. My belts usually fail at the splice so I will cut out old splice and add the same amount I cut off to the short 2 foot piece by makeing a new 2 foot + what I cut off piece. The bottom line is every belt needs to be the same length especially on a Vermeer. Also from experience get the same "ply" belting as what is on your baler. They can help you with that. 2ply and 3ply belting wont play well together. Don't ask me how I know
