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Weeds around the barn.

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Curly

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Location
Helena, Montana
I have a question for you guys--

I have gravel around the horse barn and a long driveway back to the house. I have a heck of a time keeping the weeds out of it. Back in the old days dad use to use some type of a flame blower that he would carry around and control the weeds at his place.
His method seemed to work well but its been so long ago I don't recall what system he used. Any ideas on weed control for big gravel areas would be helpful.

Curly
 
Have you tried any of the ground sterilizers?? We have used one I'll check the name worked good, but it kills everything.
 
Tehy have those flam systems at all the farm type stores around here... The thrower hooks up to a propane tank of some sort... It works... But it is not a perfect system.. Would probably use it before all the weed killers however as the wife has issues with herbicides, pesticides and the like.
 
Mrs.Greg said:
Round-up works
. . . and very well, too- - provided that one uses a Super Concentrated formula ( at least 50.2% or higher ) of Glyphosate isopropylamine salt and wet the weed material thoroughly! It's not cheap! Don't economize on the percentage.

DOC HARRIS
 
DOC HARRIS said:
Mrs.Greg said:
Round-up works
. . . and very well, too- - provided that one uses a Super Concentrated formula ( at least 50.2% or higher ) of Glyphosate isopropylamine salt and wet the weed material thoroughly! It's not cheap! Don't economize on the percentage.

DOC HARRIS

Oh it's not that expensive I've used the generic stuff for the last 6 years on roundup ready corn they recomend 1 qt. per acre but you can cut that in half and get a clean kill.It only cost $15 per gallon for it enough to do 4 acres.
 
Don't growl about resistant weed species on this board, when you have them Denny. No I didn't say if. 16 oz's=resistance...
Save now:pay later.
Come a'runnun I've heard you can pour it out; I'll growl back and be damn glad I don't farm next to your place!!!
 
Haytrucker said:
Don't growl about resistant weed species on this board, when you have them Denny. No I didn't say if. 16 oz's=resistance...
Save now:pay later.
Come a'runnun I've heard you can pour it out; I'll growl back and be damn glad I don't farm next to your place!!!

So sorry I did'nt say I used a pint but have seen it done you know too much chemical is'nt good either.But what the hell lets poison the environment that way our kids won't have anything left.
 
I spray my roundup ready corn at half rate. It kills all the weeds just fine. The only time you might need to use full rate is if you had alot of grass.
 
Denny and Sandy-

I noticed that you are from Minnesota and Lake Manitoba. This is just a thought, but I wonder if that colder climate and shorter growing season has anything to do with a difference in species and type of weeds as compared to hotter climates and wetter areas? I know that River bottom weeds are a bugger to keep down, and 100 degree temperature and 100% Humidity is as tough on keeping weeds eliminated as it is on certain cattle breeds.

DOC HARRIS
 
DOC HARRIS said:
Denny and Sandy-

I noticed that you are from Minnesota and Lake Manitoba. This is just a thought, but I wonder if that colder climate and shorter growing season has anything to do with a difference in species and type of weeds as compared to hotter climates and wetter areas? I know that River bottom weeds are a bugger to keep down, and 100 degree temperature and 100% Humidity is as tough on keeping weeds eliminated as it is on certain cattle breeds.

DOC HARRIS

I think the temps & soil moisture have more to do with it than anything. Once the plant has been stressed for moisture & the temps have jumped, the plant will create a waxy layer on the leaves to help retain moisture and then the chems can have a tough time getting through. I would guess that up in those areas this rarely happens so they can get away with reduced rates.

As to all of the resistance comments, here's the answer: ROTATION. Yes you do see resistance. Do you want to know why? Because the rotation is roundup ready corn, followed by roundup ready beans. Or just roundup ready corn followed by roundup ready corn. If a lot of those place would practice better rotations & use chems with different modes of actions in the mix, they wouldn't have the problems they're having now. It's not the reduced rate, it's the continual usage that creates the problem.

Phil
 
I use the round up on the gravel and it works well, I just worry about putting that stuff so close to the house so I wanted a second option. I just ordered a flame unit with a cart for the tank. Thanks for all the info guys.
 
Curly said:
I use the round up on the gravel and it works well, I just worry about putting that stuff so close to the house so I wanted a second option. I just ordered a flame unit with a cart for the tank. Thanks for all the info guys.
You are very welcome! Just be cautious so that you don't set the house on fire with the flame unit! AND. . .more importantly... don't set the BARN on fire!! :oops: :?

DOC HARRIS
 
Curly said:
I use the round up on the gravel and it works well, I just worry about putting that stuff so close to the house so I wanted a second option. I just ordered a flame unit with a cart for the tank. Thanks for all the info guys.

I used a flame unit (Weed Dragon) this year and it seemed to work on some weeds very well .
 
Sahara on the drive and around buildings will work. Also Pramitol but it will leach sideways to much for some people. These are ground sterilants.

The type of glyphosate will dictate the rate of that will be used. Also the type and size of weeds will dictate rate. Always read the label and use reccomended rates and adjuvants.
 

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