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What do look for when buying a Lab.

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AlbertaBorn

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I'm a hunter and I am planning to get a chocolate lab this summer. I have found an excellent breeder and have first choice of the next litter. I was wondering what I should be looking for when I go to pick one out.

www.pissed.ca
 
From what I have heard from several people is to make sure that the parents have been certified for several things. Hips are a major deal with Labs.

Don't know too much about them, but I have heard of alot of bad things that Labs can pick up through breedings. Make sure you can find out as much as you can on the certifications. Sorry I can't be too specific on which ones.

There is alot of research on the web to look through. I know a pretty big breeder in this area and I can ask him or give you his number if you want.
My best advice would be to get a Border Collie and train it to help ya, but it sounds like you want a Lab!!!!
 
sic em reds is right about the labs and esp chocolates are well known for hip dysplasia= lots of vet dollars.Think about that on top of the price your willing to pay.
 
If you want a top hunting lab, go with a black lab. You will be really lucky to get a good chocolate at the moment. The chocolates are being bred for color only at the moment. Havent seen a clever one in my lifetime. They got WAY to popular with the presidents Buddy. Everyone had to have one. Check for OFA Hip and Elbow numbers on both parents. A "G" is sufficient anything lower than that walk away from the litter. (even if they are cute) Ask if they have ever lost stock to gastric tortion. It runs heavy in some lines. Epilepsy is very common in chocolates, almost unheard of in the yellows and blacks.

This website has tons of great info on picking your puppy.
http://www.ashlandkennel.com/faq.

A good breeder will take the time to match the puppy to you.
 
Really? I have seen some real nice Chocs but they are generally the only Choc out of a litter of blacks or yellows X with a blak.. Just a random occurence usually... Never have encountered a yellow that I realy like but most out here are just Black labs and most of the yellows I knew where from one breeder who basically was just churning them out because at the time they were the in color.. I know my wife wants one in the next couple years but we some aged dogs that need to pass before we think of another pup..
 
I look for LARGE POOP PILES they are everywhere a lab goes.peeeeeuuuuwwwww
 
I would consider going with a black lab. I just need a strong healthy dog that wont be gun shy.

Judith - thanks for the link.
 
There are some great breeders out your way that's for sure. I can talk to a buddy of mine Janice Gunn if you want some names. They are in the loop on that sort of thing. They compete with the best of the best in the sport. Really great couple !
 
I had a yellow lab once.....GREAT dog in all aspects of work,play & homelife!
 
Do a basic puppy test......This will weed out the most timid,shy,unsure of themselves dogs and dogs that are just not set up in the brain to hunt...these are all things you do not want in a hunting dog!
List of stuff you'll need to do the test.
1. Small hand towel( bigger than a washclouth smaller than a bath towel.)
2. A clean empty pop can, with a few pieces of gravel,unpoped popcorn,dried beans, something to make it rattle.
3. A small soft nerf type ball/ a small soft rubber ball works also.
4. A small flashlight like a mini mag.
5. A soup can and a bag of soft dog treats( be sure to ask the breeder which type of treat they don't mind having fed, some people are very picky...I know I'm one of them lol.)
6. A squeaker from a dog toy. These can be bought at most put stores for less then a buck. or just buy a cheap toy and rip out the squeaker.
7. A note pad to keep score.
O.K. now for testing time!
Take a pup away from its littermates not far enough away that it can't hear them or see them. now play with it...how long does it stay with you? does it run right back to it buddy's whining to get to them? most will want to go back sooner or later the dog that stays around you the longers gets a point. The ones that run right back get a - 1 point. While you have this dog away from its littermates place the hand towel over its head,just lay it over top of it so that the towel comes to at least the front of the pups shoulders. How long does it take for the pup to get the towel off? Did it drop its head and back out from under the towel rather fast...the faster the dog finds its way out the better. The fastest dogs get a point, the dogs that take longer than a min to get it off get a -. While the dog had the towel on its head what did it do, some will freak out and race adound trying to get if off, others will calmly deal with the towel. The dogs that freak get a - the dogs that dont get a +. Get all the pups and take out the pop can. You want to go slow to not scare them as I'm sure they have never heard anything like this sound( unless you have found a GREAT BREEDER) sit down on the floor with them and just lighty roll the car let it make some noise, look around watch the pups and how they each react to a new sound. Slowly roll it faster and faster, stop it and start it few times dont go back to doing it slow tho, just stop and wait a min or two and then start again. The dogs that run away from the sound, hide, or act scared get 2 points off. The dogs that might be unsure but stick around get 1 point added, any dog who walks up to the can and either touch it(sniffs,licks,paws it) gets + 2 points. Get out your ball, roll it around let the pups see it and see if you can get them to want to play with it. once you have got them wanting the ball roll it away from you. What dog goes after it 1st? add a point. what dog gets it first? add a point. What does the dog with the ball do with it? give a kissing sound,pat the ground you want to try to get them to bring the ball back. Does the dog come back with it? if yes give a point. if not - one. Does the dog hold the ball or chew it? some well softly mouth it some will bite it, hold gets 2 points added,mouthing it nicly gets one point, chewing - a point. Also do this test one on one with each dog. Any dog that shows not want to play with,chase, the ball - 2 points. Take out the flashlight, make the room kind of dark if you can. turn on flashligh, DO NOT SHINE THE PUPS, you don't want them not like the light. But shine it on the floor like a spot light in one area, slowly move it...does a pup run to it? chase it maybe? are some scared if it? dogs who show interest in it get a point dogs that dont.. dont get one. Take each dog off by itself place( you'll need a hard floor no carpet) put the dog treat in your hand, open your hand just enough so the pup can smell it( be careful ! some pups will try to nip with very sharp puppy teeth, this not a huge flaw as most puppies have no clue what it is they just did wrong) once the pup knows you have something good let him see you place it on the floor, now cover it with the can. Did the dog go right to the can? if yes give a point. did the dog tip can over and get the treat? if yes give a point. If the dog can't find the treat go to the can and tip it up just enough so they can smell it once they know for sure it under there let them see if they can get it out. Dogs that dont tip can but push it all over the floor get a point if they don't give up in under a min. dog that give up lose a point. Get out your squeaker while you have them away from the litter give it a nice squeak does the dog freak? does it come running to see what that sound was? place the squeaker on the floor, whent he dog gets close to it give it squeak, does the dog keep coming or stop. dogs that show more interest get a point the ones that dont lose one. This is the end of your dog test. add put the points,forget any dogs with a - score...pick the dog with highest score and you'll have one heck of a great hunting dog. Be sure with labs to have a hip check done on both parents. black,choc,yellow all have trouble, this problem is color blind.
 
This can be done for any breed of dog. This test was put together by myself, with the help of 4 vets who work for MSU in mich. I have used it to pick out my own house dogs, my working dogs ( ranch and hunting) and for picking out pups to put though the seeing eye dog program, of which 3 out of every 5 dogs fail and go on to be pets. So far I'm 5 of for 5 none of the dogs I have picked have flunked out. When doing this test think about the breed your testing...say border collies... the hand towel will show thinking smarts and if the dog has a natural instinct to panic. Pop can will show how this dog might react to a calf jumping into a gate( sudden loud noise) or any other unexpected noise. You want them to notice it but not panic. Flashlight shows a dog whos not intimated but something unknown to it( most dogs will either fear the light or want to chase it, some could care less about it. the chase or care less dogs are the winners here) Soup can shows if the dog can think on its own and how fast it does it. Some dogs push the can forever others push it find that it slids on the hard floor and then tip it with a paw, get the treat and rewards its self for thinking. If I'm training a dog to hunt or move livestock that dog needs to be able to think for itself, to know what to do when it loses a scent, or to know what to do when I say hold em and walk away. That dog now has to think for itself I'm not there to tell it go left,go out front, go back,etc. The ball shows me if this dog has any pray drive, pray drive is a great thing when harnessed in the right way. Hunting or working that dog has got to want to be doing its job if its going to be any good at it. when it comes to pets this test shows if they will chase your kids,cars,etc. I try to pick dogs with lower pray drives for pets as they often can get into trouble if someone does not teach them how to express it safely and with manners. The squeaker is good for seeing how much a dog trust people as you keep the squeaker and for the most part it has to trust you if its unsure of the sound. Meaning you squeak dogs not sure and backs off...you offer a playful come here and a few pets...dog finds no harm and goes back to playing with you..you squeak dog not so unsure this time but might lift head and you'll see that dog not looking at you to see WTH was that but also to see if you are worried,scared etc. Dog that hear the squeak lift their heads and either pay it no mind, or want to go after it get a high score. dogs that fear it get a -. No matter what if your telling that dog its ok its safe you want it to trust you.
 
This is something not often thought of, but after 10 years at a vet clinic, it would be right at the top of my list.

When you look at the pup, check out the parents. Labs can be notorious for food allergies. This shows up as horrible seborhhea and chronic never ending ear problems. I've seen dogs who's lives were quite miserable over this. :cry: Ears all hot and red and swollen, sometimes to the point where they fill with pus. Also skin trouble, including painful summer sores and hot spots.

Ask them directly if the parents have problems with ears or skin. If they have allergies, their ears will smell really bad, and their coats will have a bad 'oily' smell. Don't let them convince you that smelly ears are normal for labs. They are not normal, but they are common.

Allergies are genetic. They are a problem. Labs, especially hunting dogs who spend a lot of time in the water are prone to enough ear troubles without adding this on top of it.

When you get a pup, post a picture. :lol:
 
I've had plenty of hunting dogs. Several years with GSP..nightmare, illness, vet bills, death at young age.
Had labs for 15yrs. No vet bills, no illness, no hip problems, no injures all lived to ag 12 minimum.
Dogs of all breeds come in 2 classes. Show dogs, and field trial lines.
If you are going to hunt phesants and ducks. I'd recommend a laid back type, maybe showXfield. If you are going to hunt just ducks, field trail breeding. If you are going to play the field trial game, you will need a hyper-"driven" type...but they are hard headed and take lots of training.
Odds of getting a bad lab are very low. However, there are the English type (typically the yellow and choclates) which are housedogs. As such they are gentle, docile, easily trained for the average hunter, without much effort, as long as they show interest in retrtieving and feathers.
There is the American, which is field type. I'll get stepped on for this, but they are a real pain in the but for anyone other than a pro-dog trainer, or someone who wants to devote a lot of time and energy in a dog. However, they are less likely to have hip problem. Form follows function, and these dogs are athletes, so they are normal built to withstand physical rigors a little more than the English.
P.S. the favorite dog of my lifetime was a yellow english....but field trialers would have hated him. I also had a professionally trained field trial dog. She was far the more dependable and obiedeint dog. More like a tool, than your personal companion.
 
Skidboots,I have to disagree... It is very easy to get a bad lab.. I can find about 50 for sale in a 30 mile radius of this place at any given time.. Very popular dog for the backyard breeders.. Make okay pets, if the health problems don't tear them up, but make god awful hunting dogs.. Have knowna few who were afraid of water.. Yes, a lab that was afraid of water.

Best hunting dog I have seen was a,,, Ohh crap... Not a German Wire Haired but a Draugthund? Does that sound right? Real nice dog that would just do anything for you when it hunted and could go all day, while on its days off was more than happy hanging out outside or holding down the furniture in the lving room.
 
I copyed the test off-hope you don't mind. If things work out,I gonna get a German Sheperd,if I can find one with good,straight hind legs.
This test will help me weed out the nuts..Thanks..
 
Print away....Thats why I posted it,to share info. As with labs be sure to ask any breeder of any breed about allergies. One thing to remember tho is the dog will only be as healthy as what your feeding it. If you feed a 10.00 for 50lbs bag of dog food, don't wonder why your dog has health problems.

Another little part of the test that I did not toss in there ( I only do this with dogs of breeds that are known to be protective/aggressive) Ask the breeder what type of treat type bone you can bring to do this part of the test. I like to use Busy Bones, Dingos-my fav.,Pig Ears,etc. You want something large enough that the pup can't just chew it up and its gone, you also want something tastier than a plain ol rawhide. Take the pup into a room away from its littermates. Give the pup the bone/treat, give it about 5 min to really get into that nummy treat. Then walk over and take it away from the pup. Most will not want to give it back, but they will not growl, or be mean in any way. They just will want to jump up and bounce around trying to get it back. If the pup shows ANY signs of aggression (growling, locking of thier jaws around the treat, nipping at you,etc. For the most part you may have to pull the treat out of the dogs mouth but you should not have to pry its mouth open to get it back) put that pup on the no thank you list. If you are doing this test on a litter of pups and you get 3 or more dogs from the litter who show signs of being aggressive LEAVE,WALK AWAY find a new breeder. Aggression is not only taught but is in the breeding of the dog and it can be a big sign of poor breeding. Also remember You'll need a new bone for each litter of pups you do this test on. As a Breeder myself I would not let someone bring a bone that has been chewed on by other dogs that I did not raise, for the fear of them having something and giving it to my pups. This rule goes for the ball unless its a rubber ball, but then be sure to wipe it off with a rag and a little alcohol to kill any germs. You could even bring the bottle with you so the breeder see you do this.
 
Wow,thank you--good,common sense tests..I would do the "roll the puppy over",and the" see how he does with the others,"and the "does he like me enough to want to stay",but this covers a lot more..thanks again..
 
Just MY 2 cents, but couldn't resist... Do you have any kids, or are you planning to have any??? I know it isn't a case of all are the same, but my ex-husband and his Dad breed labs. He had a chocolate female, that put my son in the hospital for 3 days when she bit him in the face. These are the "American Field-type labs" and are VERY hyper, to the point of having OCD traits.(dropping rocks out of the driveway on your foot repeatedly, to try to get you to throw them. I was constantly dropping rocks in the trash dumpster, to keep them from eating them!)

(BTW, had a pitbull that was one of the best hunting dogs ever! Could put her on coons, squirrels, rabbits and ducks. She was stolen, after I took her with to a coonhound field trial in CA. (Was running a bluetick, and just had her with. Someone took her out of the camper. Some guard dog!)
 
http://www.gundogbreeders.com/

This was kind of a neat link that I stumbled upon :)
 

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