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Can you?

Just find someone with a garden and most likely they have in it. I know my raised vegetable beds it is a constant battle with it. Everytime I dig quack grass out of the garden I throw it someplace I want it to grow and it generally does. :D
 
I asked Mike and he's pretty sure it's 4oz/acre of roundup. It will get any of the annual nuisance grasses. There is also a generic Plateau now that I'd forgot about, which is more reasonalby priced. It is nice because it doesn't kill any of the good rangegrasses (or most tame ones), and has a 6 month residual.
 
Low doses of roundup on range land is the reason Australia has an out of control roundup resistance problem. Seems the low doses built up the tolerances in a lot of the species and seed continues to spread, and before long roundup has become ineffective at much of anything.
 
I didn't realize that the question was about crop land. Simple rotations will take care of cheatgrass. You just need to plant a later season crop to give yourself a chance to kill the cheat before it heads. It is fairly easy to do with glyphos, but I don't think I would go down to 4 oz, that is pretty low and those micro rates will lend themselves to resistance development.

The broadleaf sprays that I mentioned will not kill the plant. They are growth stimulants so they will cause the seed to deform and it won't be viable. Using a broadleaf over top of oats would work but the cheat at least has to be in the boot if not jointed or even headed. This strategy though is one that will take multiple years and you aren't going to actually kill the plant that you see growing. However, cheat doesn't last long in the seed bank. The vast majority of of cheat plants that you see growing will actually be from the previous year's production. If memory serves me correctly it is somewhere above 90% of the plants you see growing are from the prior growing season's seed production. That is why a strategy that kills the seed should work to reduce the pressure of the cheat.

This is all based on the assumption that we are discussing bromus tectorum and not some other species.
 
rancherfred said:
I didn't realize that the question was about crop land. Simple rotations will take care of cheatgrass. You just need to plant a later season crop to give yourself a chance to kill the cheat before it heads. It is fairly easy to do with glyphos, but I don't think I would go down to 4 oz, that is pretty low and those micro rates will lend themselves to resistance development.

The broadleaf sprays that I mentioned will not kill the plant. They are growth stimulants so they will cause the seed to deform and it won't be viable. Using a broadleaf over top of oats would work but the cheat at least has to be in the boot if not jointed or even headed. This strategy though is one that will take multiple years and you aren't going to actually kill the plant that you see growing. However, cheat doesn't last long in the seed bank. The vast majority of of cheat plants that you see growing will actually be from the previous year's production. If memory serves me correctly it is somewhere above 90% of the plants you see growing are from the prior growing season's seed production. That is why a strategy that kills the seed should work to reduce the pressure of the cheat.

This is all based on the assumption that we are discussing bromus tectorum and not some other species.
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Thanks.
We normally seed this ground sometime in the first ten days in June. The cheatgrass is usually about 2 inches high when we disc in prep to seeding. Would spraying at this stage or wait until it comes back with the oats be better. We are not talking about a very big area, 3 or 4 acres at most is affected.
Our timber ground is a self inflicted challenge to clean the rocks off and make it grow. This year we will seed about 25 acres for bale silage.
 
Since you are quite a bit further north than we are I am not real sure when you would start seeing green up. Cheat will normally start showing signs of life for sure by mid-April here. We try to hit it as soon as it is green, if it hasn't been sprayed in the fall already. Since we are in a 100% no-till system we aren't trying to do anything with the disc. However, I remember well the impossible job that it was to kill cheat by discing.

Would it be possible to not till the area that you are having trouble with cheat in? Just go in and spray it w/ glyphos as soon as it starts greening up, when it is as small as possible and then hit it again with glyphos, if you need it, a few days before you plant your crop. Avoid tilling the area at all if it is possible because every time you run over that with a disc you will be planting more cheat seed. I don't know what your soil conditions are or if it is even possible to try to no-till even a small area, but that is what will probably give you the best chance of cleaning it up.
 
Another way is spray it heavy work the soil and wait two weeks for the seeds to germinate spray again and plant.With a press drill the ground should still be soft enough for that.We have even planted and sprayed a couple days later just before what we planted germanates.
 
Faster horses said:
Don't be putting words in my mouth!!!! :disagree: :nod: :nod: :nod: :D :D :D

OR CIGARETTES!!!!! :shock:

I hate smoking! :nod: :nod: :nod:

I heard today that a carton of cigarettes, Salem's I think it was,
cost are you ready for this?----- $74!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here in Montana...
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:shock: :shock: :shock: NEVER again! :shock: :shock: :shock: :-)
 
rancherfred said:
Since you are quite a bit further north than we are I am not real sure when you would start seeing green up. Cheat will normally start showing signs of life for sure by mid-April here. We try to hit it as soon as it is green, if it hasn't been sprayed in the fall already. Since we are in a 100% no-till system we aren't trying to do anything with the disc. However, I remember well the impossible job that it was to kill cheat by discing.

Would it be possible to not till the area that you are having trouble with cheat in? Just go in and spray it w/ glyphos as soon as it starts greening up, when it is as small as possible and then hit it again with glyphos, if you need it, a few days before you plant your crop. Avoid tilling the area at all if it is possible because every time you run over that with a disc you will be planting more cheat seed. I don't know what your soil conditions are or if it is even possible to try to no-till even a small area, but that is what will probably give you the best chance of cleaning it up.
Click to expand...

I'm not a big fan of no-till, but I do think no-till is good in certain applications. After reading all the posts, I have to agree with
rancherfred, no-till would be the best option. You should be able
to get a good kill with 10-16 oz of glypos product in early spring
when the cheet is just good and green. It should be green before
the other plants are except maybe a tame grasses. I do know in this
country the ground has to be pretty cool for the cheet grass to sprout.
That is why you most generaly see it in the spring or fall. Very
seldom you find new growth cheet in the summer. It might take
several years to clean it all up.
 
Big Muddy rancher said:
RobertMac said:
gcreekrch, wire it off and put some goats and/or pigs on it. As soon as you find a use for it, it will surely die off!!! :wink: :lol:
Click to expand...

You could contract with the Goat King of Utah for those goats.
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You are offically on the list BMR!!!! :twisted: And near the top! :roll: :roll:

Cheatgrass is pretty tough, but if ya keep after it, you'll knock it out!
 
I guess my cows are-n't finicky enough to find meadow foxtail unpalatable-our main pasture grass is probably duck hay-I haven't seeded new grass in at least 15 years-I doubt I ever will.
 

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