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Effects of different pasture/hay field management techniques

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DiamondSCattleCo

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In another thread, there was a comment posted from a trade magazine about how stocking rates couldn't be improved on in North America, so I figured I'd post my results from some changes I'd made around here.

One of the more "controversial" things I've done is I've quit taking my second cut of alfalfa. Our area historically takes 2 cuts per season, with the second being in late August/early September, which doesn't give the alfalfa much time to come back.

I had a 110 acre hay field that I split in half, taking second cuts on 1/2, and single cutting the other half. The single cut side has generally yielded less over the years and I'd planned on taking it out of production when my father sowed down some of his grain land to hay. The first year of the experiment, I left a 1/2 ton/acre second cut in the field. In the following year, you could see the line in the hay field where I hadn't taken my second cut. The hay was standing about 6 inches taller and was a healthier green on the single cut side. It also, for the first time since I owned the land, out-yielded the double cut side by 1/2 ton/acre on first cut. Since it generally worked the other way around, I'd say that leaving my 1/2 ton second cut behind boosted my next years yield by 1 ton/acre. And my second cut only yielded about 1/2 to 1 ton/acre, so my total first cut yields were equal to (or slightly less than) the total yields on the double cut side, with less effort, less diesel fuel, and less wear and tear on the machinery. Overall, my cost per ton of feed decreased.

Now this year has not been a friendly year for hay production in my area. Cold nights in the spring really set back the alfalfa growth, and rain has been feast/famine type stuff. On the single cut side, the hay was later maturing so it made better use of the rains, and the single cut side is now outpacing the double cut side by 1 - 1 1/2 tons/acre. In places, I have grass and alfalfa standing above the hood of my truck and I can barely get through it with my mower/conditioner. The double cut side is poor in places, standing 6 - 12 inches in some places.

And, more importantly I think, I'm out-yielding the traditional hay crops in the area that were fertilized. This gives me the added bonus of qualifying for organic production. My organic calves last year only netted me 2 - 3 cents/lb extra, but every little bit counts.

The other thing I've been doing is bale grazing. I always thought this was a waste of feed and was just for lazy folks who didn't want to use their tractors.

Boy was I wrong. :)

I started my bale grazing experiment on some light land I had that really needed some extra nutrient and fibre. Some of the land was blow sand that hadn't grown anything in decades. This was 3 years ago. In the first year, I really didn't see much of a difference, but I did see some nice ground cover in both wasted hay and manure. Its important to note that the wasted hay wasn't any more than you would see with a cheap round bale feeder. It was more waste than you'd see with my hay saver feeders, but not a whole bunch more. In the second year, we had good moisture and I really started seeing some results. The grass in the marginal areas was standing about as high as the grass in the good sections, and even the blow sand was growing grass. But only around where I set the bales. The cattle however, wouldn't touch the grass until it froze off. It was possibly too nitrogen rich. Now this year where I've been bale grazing, the grass is rich, thick and lush, sometimes standing 2 feet higher than the non-bale grazed grasses. The cattle are happily munching on the grass and the grass cover is fairly consistent around the pasture, not just collected in the bale placement areas.

I also bale grazed a wore out pasture last year that was polluted with red top. Wherever I placed a bale, the quack grass has easily choked out the red-top, and is standing four and five feet tall. I never realized my land was capable of grass production like that.

I figure another 2 or 3 years of bale grazing and I'll be able to easily increase my stocking rates by 20%, if not more. I have better grass, I've spent less diesel fuel getting the feed to the cattle, and I don't have to fire up my tractors in -40F. I haven't needed any fertilizer, and I believe that the healthier stands are more resilient to in-climate weather patterns.

Just a little food for thought...

Rod
 
Terrific information Rod. Thank you for sharing it. Good to see results like that.

For years I was always worried about "wasting" hay by field feeding round bales but after a couple of years of doing it (we unroll ours out as long as the snow isn't too deep) it's not hard to tell the difference where we do it and there is very little hay left on the ground in the spring when the snow goes away.

Not to mention the savings in bedding and cleaning feeding yards and barns.
 
It is encouraging to know that there are still innovative out of the box thinkers out there. If we can avoid having the city steam role over this place I'm hopeful someone like you Rod can come in a keep the neighbors asking questions and pointing. :)
 
Rod, this winter will be our 5th year for bale grazing. Wish I had started doing it a lot sooner. The grass growth is phenomenal. We grazed corn for 9 years before that and have dabbled around with a bit of swath grazing.I keep on being asked about how much waste there is and I really don't think that there is any waste. Anything that the cows leave behind is fertilizer in my mind, and I like to leave behind a lot of "fertilizer" or "waste" in laymen's terms. I look at this as an investment that really pays off in the long run. We also take out a lot of straw bales with the hay and let the cows bounce and roll them around. It takes longer for the soil critters to break this much fibre, but in my opinion, the subsequent grass production is even better than where we had only hay bales. The 1st year that we tried it was on the worst piece of ground that we have. It was hard as cement,stoney gravelly. It wouldn't grow any kind of grass whether it was grazed or not. After about the 2nd year,we really started to notice the difference. Different type grasses and legumes started showing up and I still don't know where they came from.Now when we turn the cows in you lose the calves for the first couple of days because the grass is so tall and thick. It is now our best producing paddock and made us a real believer in bale grazing. No amount of purchased fertilizer could ever produce the same result, especially with the change in grasses. The couple that I learnt bale grazing from have been doing this for 20 years. They increased their cow herd from 150 to 750 using the same land base, so that tells you how much grass improvement can be accomplished. It makes me shake my head when I think about all the hours I spent taking out bales and cutting strings during the winter, while having 2 kids in hockey and running them around the country. Oh well, at least we're doing it now. Sad part is that most people avoid change or having to learn something new.
 
This is a related topic but I think it's worth adding to this thread. Since I began my 12 pasture rotation about 5 years ago, we haven't had what I would call a "normal " year with the drought and all, but this year with plentiful spring and early summer moisture the results are amazing.

I just turned in to the last paddock of my first pass through and will be going into the paddock that I started the season with in a couple weeks. The regrowth after 60 days of rest is phenominal. The pastures are so green that the risk of fire is virtually zero, right now anyway. The continuously grazed pastures right across the fence are full of mature tall grass that, if we ever got a fire and some wind, look out.

Anyway, it's so satisfying to see the results of management when they work. I just turned my bulls out on the 22nd of July for my first year of May and June calving next year too. My Dad is 83 and he's not sure about my decision to move calving a month later on grass, but I am looking forward to the change. Anything to try to hit a better market and save money on feed is worth it in my mind.
 
What a great thread guys, keep it going!!

Swede, just a question, is your grass fully recovered in 60 days? And by fully recovered, I mean has it began to flower again? If not, try letting it rest and recover to flowering stages, and it will help strengthen your stand even more. THe root system will have more time to go down and out, loosening your organic layer further, allowing for better movement of oxygen, nutrients, and those wonderful little critters in there that make everything happen.

Also, the more growth it has before a 2nd grazing, the more litter the cattle are likely to knock into the organic layer, thus fertilizing heavier. Once we do these things right, it is truly amazing how quickly it compounds.

Don't worry about the May/June calving, you'll love it once you're there. The closer we follow Mother Nature's examples, the easier it gets.
 
I have heard it said there is $9 dollars of nutrients in a bale when bale grazing. Maybe more now with with the price of fertilizer.

We live in the same province a Rod we are on the other end of the spectrum as far a moisture is concerned. We have gone to a three year rotation on our breeding pasture. We use one hard for about sixty days thru July and August
then rest it three years. We are seeing a change to taller species and terrific growth. We then go into a large pasture that only gets used dormant season. The cows have stayed in that one from September until April weather permitting. We then rotate them thru some other pastures during calving, branding until breeding the next year.
 
per said:
can come in a keep the neighbors asking questions and pointing. :)

:lol: Yeah the neighbors generally have lots to point at around here. The pointing is usually followed by, "What the %%^% is he doing now?"

:lol:

I still graze my pastures too hard around here, but I haven't had the chance to get my rotted down manure spread to breathe new life into them. Next on my hit list is mob grazing. I understand it works well in drier zones, so I'm curious as to how my land with respond to it.

BMR, its interesting how only a couple hundred miles makes such a difference. I've had a hay pasture here that wasn't producing at all, so instead of working it, I decided to shave it off then leave it a couple years to see what happened. The first year, grass looked the same as it always did (poor). The second year, the grass was HEAVY and tall. Now this year the yield has started to decline, so I'm going to get the animals on it and buzz it off.

Rod
 
Do any of you bale graziers get 2 -3 feet of snow? I'm not sure that the cows would like having to dig through that much snow to get to the bottom of the bales. We might get only 1 foot or up to 3 feet at a time with a lot of drifting.
 
Burnt, we don't do very much bale grazing but we do a lot of swath and banked grass grazing and straw bunch grazing. We have never had a condition where our cows couldn't do a good job finding and cleaning up the swath, even with a couple feet of snow except in a wet frost free spring. The crust left over after a Chinook can be a problem with straight grazing meadow brome and rough fescue. Our straw bunches can fill in with snow after being opened up but if we limit access to new ones they will clean the old even with lots of snow. Hard drifts are an issue but I suggest you try it and test it out. The key is to only allow access to a limited supply. I think I might have been just rambling but I hope this helps. This is such a great topic. We all have so much to learn.
 
Burnt, if we don't get 4 feet of snow every winter, we don't consider it a real winter lol.That's why we started to shy away from grazing corn and swath grazing and got more invoved in bale grazing. Our bales are set out individually and the drifting snow swirls around the bales and their is very little snow around the bales themselves.I know what you are talking about because that was also my biggest concern when we first started doing this. I thought that the bales could be covered over with snow and I didn't want the cows to be wading through snow to get to the bales.That's just not how it works though. I am continually amazed though, at how much snow the cows can go through if they know that there is good grass underneath. I've watched them leave good quality hay bales to graze swampy type grass in Jan. and Feb. They won't touch this grass all summer, but it must sweeten up or something during the winter, because they go at it like candy. Go figure. I quess nobody told the cows that this grass wasn't any good.The more that we increase our soil fertility, using the cows, the more grass that we have for winter grazing, which decreases the amount of hay needed, which eventually should help our bottomline, even in a depressed cattle market.Just my thoughts, but it does make things more enjoyable when you see your grass improving every year.
 
Burnt, if we don't get 4 feet of snow every winter, we don't consider it a real winter lol.That's why we started to shy away from grazing corn and swath grazing and got more invoved in bale grazing. Our bales are set out individually and the drifting snow swirls around the bales and their is very little snow around the bales themselves.I know what you are talking about because that was also my biggest concern when we first started doing this. I thought that the bales could be covered over with snow and I didn't want the cows to be wading through snow to get to the bales.That's just not how it works though. I am continually amazed though, at how much snow the cows can go through if they know that there is good grass underneath. I've watched them leave good quality hay bales to graze swampy type grass in Jan. and Feb. They won't touch this grass all summer, but it must sweeten up or something during the winter, because they go at it like candy. Go figure. I quess nobody told the cows that this grass wasn't any good.The more that we increase our soil fertility, using the cows, the more grass that we have for winter grazing, which decreases the amount of hay needed, which eventually should help our bottomline, even in a depressed cattle market.Just my thoughts, but it does make things more enjoyable when you see your grass improving every year.
 
We usually get around 4 - 6 feet of snow in the winter, and occasionally we get a very large first dump in November. I've been bringing the cows in once I see a couple feet of snow laying in the pastures (most of our snow ends up blowing into the trees, but by the end of winter we'll have 3 - 4 feet laying in the pastures and fields). This year I plan to bring the cows up to a close pasture and keep them out right up until calving (mid-Feb). If the snow gets too deep, I'll buzz a path through the bales with my blade.

As a side note, I think this may help with moisture conservation in the spring. Compacted snow melts slower and soaks in versus running off.

Rod
 
I get so busy during the summer that I don't have time to check in all that often, but in response to your question Pure Country, the tall grass species like big blue stem, sand blue stem, and switch grass are just now starting to head out. I think it would be about perfect to regraze before it gets too mature, but are you saying you think I should wait a little longer? I'm open for suggestions from anyone more experienced than I am when it comes to grass management.

Another thing I have noticed is that the tall grass species are getting thicker all the time. I was told to take pictures when I first started my rotation so you could map the progress but I never did. I wish I would have. The areas of bare ground are becoming less with the increase in litter so that's another plus.

Ever noticed everything works better when it rains? :D

I hope and pray for you that are still in drought areas that you might get some rain soon.
 
I read in an article recently that said that the root system of grass basically reflects the size of the plant that is sticking out of the ground. With that in mind, as was already mentioned, it sure is better the longer one can go between rotations. Letting the plants get to their maximum height is crucial according to the article I read. I'm still not sure how I'm going go about that, but I'm absolutely certain that there'll be some more fencing involved! :D :D
 
DiamondSCattleCo said:
We usually get around 4 - 6 feet of snow in the winter, and occasionally we get a very large first dump in November. I've been bringing the cows in once I see a couple feet of snow laying in the pastures (most of our snow ends up blowing into the trees, but by the end of winter we'll have 3 - 4 feet laying in the pastures and fields). This year I plan to bring the cows up to a close pasture and keep them out right up until calving (mid-Feb). If the snow gets too deep, I'll buzz a path through the bales with my blade.

As a side note, I think this may help with moisture conservation in the spring. Compacted snow melts slower and soaks in versus running off.

Rod

Rod, what are you doing calving in mid-Feb?????? You're bale grazing, rotational grazing, doing so many things right for your resource base, then you calve in February??? You're a harder workin' man than I am. May/June is too easy for me to ever go back again.
 
Big Swede said:
I get so busy during the summer that I don't have time to check in all that often, but in response to your question Pure Country, the tall grass species like big blue stem, sand blue stem, and switch grass are just now starting to head out. I think it would be about perfect to regraze before it gets too mature, but are you saying you think I should wait a little longer? I'm open for suggestions from anyone more experienced than I am when it comes to grass management.

Another thing I have noticed is that the tall grass species are getting thicker all the time. I was told to take pictures when I first started my rotation so you could map the progress but I never did. I wish I would have. The areas of bare ground are becoming less with the increase in litter so that's another plus.

Ever noticed everything works better when it rains? :D

I hope and pray for you that are still in drought areas that you might get some rain soon.

Swede, if your bare ground is decreasing, your litter is increasing, and your forage growth is improving, then your definitely doing things right. If the grasses are just heading out, try waiting until they've flowered before regrazing. If you need to graze them now, by all means go ahead. I'm not saying we wait until the 3rd day of blooming on our brome grass every year without fail, because common sense has to rule, and sometimes cows just have to get moved when things aren't optimal. What I am saying, is that we AIM for the plants to be flowering before we regraze, and in areas where there is less than 1% organic matter in the topsoil, we try to let it rest a full year, only grazing every 14-16 months. That way, it has time to actually build some growth, since land that poor and light takes a long time to grow anything knee high to a jack rabbitt. Once it has some ripe, dormant old growth built up, we can hit it hard with lots of hooves and turn that litter into food for soil critters.

Long story short, I agree 100% with Movin' On, it sure is better the longer one can go between rotations, to an extent. Finding the right balance of hoof action and rest is the key to improving pastures. Too much grazing without any rest destroys grassland, and too much rest without any grazing will decrease growth over time as well.
 
PureCountry said:
Big Swede said:
I get so busy during the summer that I don't have time to check in all that often, but in response to your question Pure Country, the tall grass species like big blue stem, sand blue stem, and switch grass are just now starting to head out. I think it would be about perfect to regraze before it gets too mature, but are you saying you think I should wait a little longer? I'm open for suggestions from anyone more experienced than I am when it comes to grass management.

Another thing I have noticed is that the tall grass species are getting thicker all the time. I was told to take pictures when I first started my rotation so you could map the progress but I never did. I wish I would have. The areas of bare ground are becoming less with the increase in litter so that's another plus.

Ever noticed everything works better when it rains? :D

I hope and pray for you that are still in drought areas that you might get some rain soon.

Swede, if your bare ground is decreasing, your litter is increasing, and your forage growth is improving, then your definitely doing things right. If the grasses are just heading out, try waiting until they've flowered before regrazing. If you need to graze them now, by all means go ahead. I'm not saying we wait until the 3rd day of blooming on our brome grass every year without fail, because common sense has to rule, and sometimes cows just have to get moved when things aren't optimal. What I am saying, is that we AIM for the plants to be flowering before we regraze, and in areas where there is less than 1% organic matter in the topsoil, we try to let it rest a full year, only grazing every 14-16 months. That way, it has time to actually build some growth, since land that poor and light takes a long time to grow anything knee high to a jack rabbitt. Once it has some ripe, dormant old growth built up, we can hit it hard with lots of hooves and turn that litter into food for soil critters.

Long story short, I agree 100% with Movin' On, it sure is better the longer one can go between rotations, to an extent. Finding the right balance of hoof action and rest is the key to improving pastures. Too much grazing without any rest destroys grassland, and too much rest without any grazing will decrease growth over time as well.

You have said that very well. I find the drier the area the longer the rest needs to be.
 

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