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I need a new stock trailer

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Curly

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Hey folks, I have another question for the gang.

The bumper pull stock trailer we've been using is all used up. I'm going to get another one the end of next month. I'd like to get one that I can haul a dozen steers. Any recommendations on a well built trailer that will last a while?
I've looked at the Titans and I like them but they are going for close to $8000 right now!! I was hoping to pay closer to $6000. I'd like to get new if I could.

Thanks guys!

Curly
 
I will. Any other suggestions guys?

The beat up trailer I am replacing had a metal floor with rubber over it. It seemed to hold up good. The new trailers I am looking at all have wood floors. How long does the wood last on a well used trailer? Is rubber over it a good idea or will that keep the wood damp and make it rot?

Last question, how big of a trailer do I need to haul 10 or 12 average steers?
 
The only thing I can suggest is to forget about a bumper pull for the amount of weight you're wanting to pull. A gooseneck or fifth wheel is the only way to go for ease of handling AND safety purposes.
As far as brands go you just have to find the right trailer at the right price. I have a 20 ft SWS flatdeck with tandem dual 10,000 lb axles that I built steel and plywood racks for, it's tough and multi-purpose. The sides go on and off in one piece in about 10 minutes with the loader. I can haul 11- 1200 lb cows for space. Only drawback is I have to use a loading chute, it is too high to ground load.
 
I agree with gcreekrch. If you're gonna trade up to a new trailer, go with a gooseneck. Easier pulling, easier riding, better control on the road.

That said I have two trailers and I bought both used. First one is a '73 WW 16' pull type. I think I gave $1100 for it at a farm sale quite a few years ago and have probably put that much into it. It is a darn good trailer for its age. New treated rough lumber floor, rebuilt center gate, misc welding and rewiring make it as roadworthy as a new one.

The old split ring 15" wheels are a PIA. Although the bolt pattern is the same, the hub centers on the trailer are just big enough I'm not sure that 6 bolt GM pickup wheels would fit. I'm sure aftermarket white spokers would! :wink:

I bought a '94 Titan 20' gooseneck a few years ago at another auction. Paid $4000 and haven't done a thing to this trailer. Came with excellent 14 ply radial rubber. The wood floor is in good shape and has rubber mats over it.

The secret to keeping any steel trailer with a wood floor in good shape is keep it clean. The power washer is your friend. Take the mats up, clean'er up good and let everything dry well before you put the mats back down. When you have good rubber mats you don't have to mess with sand, gravel, or bedding.

I'm not sure what you mean by "10 or 12 average steers". Calves or yearlings? I can get 12 - 5 weight steers in the 16 footer. The 20 foot trailer would be real tight for any distance with a dozen 800 lb+ yearlings.
 
Yearling steers is what I will be using it for mostly. I know the goose necks pull better and I may go up to that but the bumper pulls have sure worked well for me... thats something I will need to decide asap
 
I have squeezed 10 big calves/small yearlings (700lbs +/-) in the 16' trailer for short trips to pasture. I wouldn't want to go 100 miles on a hot day with them.

Even if such a thing is made I doubt you want any bigger than a 16' trailer as a pull type. Just too much weight on that back hitch/bumper no matter how heavy duty the pickup pulling it is. And after using a bumper pull, towing a gooseneck will spoil you fast! :wink:
 
A gooseneck is lots easier to turn around and back-up. But bumperpulls can be cheaper to purchase. I really like the WW 20 foot stock. It is built well and holds up good. And the aluminum trailers are light to pull. But just my 2 cents! :D
 
The 80"x20' Gooseneck stock trailer are the most common we sell.They are nearly the same price as a 16' or 18' they all need the same axels, jack's.tires and raw materials.They all have the same amount of gatesetc.You won't get a new gooseneck for $6000.00 though as raw materials have really went up in the last couple years.A new 20'gooseneck will cost you $7900.00 I would buy a used 6x20 for $1500 plenty good..
 
gcreekrch said:
The only thing I can suggest is to forget about a bumper pull for the amount of weight you're wanting to pull. A gooseneck or fifth wheel is the only way to go for ease of handling AND safety purposes.
As far as brands go you just have to find the right trailer at the right price. I have a 20 ft SWS flatdeck with tandem dual 10,000 lb axles that I built steel and plywood racks for, it's tough and multi-purpose. The sides go on and off in one piece in about 10 minutes with the loader. I can haul 11- 1200 lb cows for space. Only drawback is I have to use a loading chute, it is too high to ground load.
Click to expand...

What he said!!!
I rolled my bumper bull trailer on the interstate trying to pull too much load. So I sold my truck and bought a 3/4 ton and went to a goosneck trailer. I swore that I would never haul cattle in another bumper pull.
 
My truck is a dura-max 3/4 ton so it would pull a goose just fine. If I looked for a good used goose neck I could probably find one in nice shape thats in my price range.... Other than Craig's List what's the best way to find a used trailer? The used ones I've looked at have all been beat to hell.
 
Curly said:
My truck is a dura-max 3/4 ton so it would pull a goose just fine. If I looked for a good used goose neck I could probably find one in nice shape thats in my price range.... Other than Craig's List what's the best way to find a used trailer? The used ones I've looked at have all been beat to hell.
Click to expand...

Curly- this place is quite aways from you but you might want to check their website- or give them a call- as they get some awful nice trade ins...They are nice people to deal with and this is where we got our new Titan 24 footer this spring- and I know Faster Horses has had good dealings with them too...

No dealers in the Great Falls area? I think my son said there was one in the Bozeman area that handled a lot of trailers....

http://www.btandf.com/index.htm
 
I am looking at a stoll to replace mine. I think they run about $7000. So I am saving up.

www.stolltrailers.com
 
alabama said:
I am looking at a stoll to replace mine. I think they run about $7000. So I am saving up.

www.stolltrailers.com
Click to expand...

With the price of raw materials going up you better save money fast.20' Gooseneck stocktrailers have went up $1000 since april..
 
re. the wood floors in trailers, I second what John said about keeping them clean........but not sure how often it is needed,either. The guys seem to wash ours out fairly often, but sure not after each use. Guess it depends on how wet the 'mess' in it is, AND how soon they are going to be sleeping in the front end of it on a Buckaroo ride, or a wagon train trek!!!

We have the rubber mats and I'm not sure if floors are wood or aluminum. I know we had a wood floor, and think we still have all but the first trailer we had (and that was a LOT of years ago), but one does have to take care of them and watch out for rotted wood. A foot through a trailer floor is not a pretty sight, as well as costly, after a few miles!!!!

We really like the salvage rubber matting one can buy at Union Center, SD. Have it in our horse barn over real small rock and it drains well, and is easy to pick up the 'road apples' off it. The main reason for it, though, was we had horses that pawed big holes in the dirt floor when tied in stalls overnight. No more of that, now. It would cost lots more now than years ago when we did it, even just to haul the rock, tho we probably didn't put down over 2-4" of it.

mrj
 
alabama said:
I am looking at a stoll to replace mine. I think they run about $7000. So I am saving up.

www.stolltrailers.com
Click to expand...

I've seen those open stock trailers but I don't know how they would work in these parts, seems pretty cold in the winter months. I guess a nice thing about them is they would be easier to clean out. What's to gain by going with that style, is it just a personal choice thing?
 
Curly said:
alabama said:
I am looking at a stoll to replace mine. I think they run about $7000. So I am saving up.

www.stolltrailers.com
Click to expand...

I've seen those open stock trailers but I don't know how they would work in these parts, seems pretty cold in the winter months. I guess a nice thing about them is they would be easier to clean out. What's to gain by going with that style, is it just a personal choice thing?
Click to expand...

I'm interested in that question also. I'm going to build one out of aluminum, and the cost is just about the same for a solid side compared to an open style.

TIA

bart.

<///><
 
mrj, when you say "salvage rubber matting" do you mean used conveyor belt such as from conveyors at gravel quarries? That's what I'm thinking that you are referring to.

I bought mats for my bumper pull trailer on "the other side of the street" at Union Center. I believe they are 100% recycled rubber. 4' x 6' and about 1" thick with a "dot" design on both sides. I have 4 of them crosswise in my 16' bumper pull.

Should trim the front one to lay down flat around the round trailer nose but I just use it as is and it works fine. The deeper side of the design I keep down. I like these mats. They were new product made from recycled materials. Not a used salvage product. They have held up extremely well. I also think they would make a good place to stand on in applications like over a cold concrete shop floor in front of a workbench. Haven't seen them before or since though, so I don't knnow if they are still available.
 
We have two stock trailers that have "rumber" floors. This is 2"x6" tongue and groove flooring made from recycled tires that was built in the trailers when they were manufactured. It's great stuff and very durable. It can be a bit slick, so we always keep a little sand on the floors for footing.

On the subject of open-topped trailers, the chief advantage is that you can rope a critter out in the pasture and drag them into the trialer without having to undally to string the rope through the sides. With the open top you can merely get the rope above the sides and drag the citter right on in. Some open-topped trailers even have a two inch hitch ball mounted up high on each side, by the upper corners of the back endgate. This provides a "rope-friendly" surface to drag the rope around as the rider drags said stock into the trailer.
 

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