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JD 535 blues...

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westnebraska

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I have a JD 535 round baler. I took on some neighbors meadows this year to hay. I decided to go though the baler. New belts, lower drive belt, bearings, etc. Thought all was well but now i can not get the baler to make a 6' diameter bale each time. I have the diameter knob set at 6. I've redone the assembly on the twine unit. My thought now is to replace the microswitches. Suggestions?
 
westnebraska said:
I have a JD 535 round baler. I took on some neighbors meadows this year to hay. I decided to go though the baler. New belts, lower drive belt, bearings, etc. Thought all was well but now i can not get the baler to make a 6' diameter bale each time. I have the diameter knob set at 6. I've redone the assembly on the twine unit. My thought now is to replace the microswitches. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
So what exactly is it doing?
 
Micro switches are easy to test with multi meter. Has to be u tube videos to show you. I never had micro switch problems with my 535. But that was years ago.
Those 535s used to be everywhere but I dont see them hardly anymore.
 
westnebraska said:
I have a JD 535 round baler. I took on some neighbors meadows this year to hay. I decided to go though the baler. New belts, lower drive belt, bearings, etc. Thought all was well but now i can not get the baler to make a 6' diameter bale each time. I have the diameter knob set at 6. I've redone the assembly on the twine unit. My thought now is to replace the microswitches. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
It sounds like maybe just adjust the microswitches if they are adjustable. Are you making smaller bales?
 
westnebraska said:
I replaced and secured all the linkage. I set the knob on 6' for the desired diameter. About every 3rd bale it will activate the tie process at 3-4 on the display gauge to make a 3-4' bale. Inconsistent.
Click to expand...
Ive got a new Holland baler now but I used to be great at fixing those 535s but honestly I dont really remember. Was years ago and fixed a lot of other stuff since then.
I do remember if I drove to fast or if it was to bumpy the bumps would trip some of the micro switches . Could this be what's going on? I would test switches before replacing. Although I'm not sure if a new micro switch might be less effected by bumps???
 
I thought those balers were hydraulic tie with a mechanical linkage to start the tie process (thus the knob to set bale size) and that the micro switch was just for the monitor to tell you it was time to stop and such. At least that's how the 530 was and I think the only difference is the 535 has two tying arms.
 
Silver said:
I thought those balers were hydraulic tie with a mechanical linkage to start the tie process (thus the knob to set bale size) and that the micro switch was just for the monitor to tell you it was time to stop and such. At least that's how the 530 was and I think the only difference is the 535 has two tying arms.
Click to expand...
535s if I'm remembering right had micro switch to initiate tie process but you also have a mechanical rope pull mechanical secondary mechanism that you could use. Example to tie a core bale when field was finished.
I'm going from from memory. These balers used to be everywhere but old enough you dont see them anymore
 
Evans said:
535s if I'm remembering right had micro switch to initiate tie process but you also have a mechanical rope pull mechanical secondary mechanism that you could use. Example to tie a core bale when field was finished.
I'm going from from memory. These balers used to be everywhere but old enough you dont see them anymore
Click to expand...
I know my 530 also had a rope pull to initiate the tie process if you wanted to tie a bale before the preset bale size was achieved. The whole system was mechanical / hydraulic so the micro switches were just for the monitor to tell you what to do ie: bale almost full, bale complete tying started, tailgate open/closed, etc.
The bale achieving the size set by the knob was the only way other than the rope to initiate the tying process as the valve needed to me tripped mechanically. I did some googling and see that the only difference between the 530 and the 535 was the twin arms on the 535. Both very good balers.
 
The issue I'm experiencing is the lack of consistency. I replaced the linkage, oil reservoir, etc. I would get the desired size bale a few times and then it would make a "baby" bale. As I put new belts, and bearings in it, id like to have it as a backup baler. Im currently using a 567. Thank you for the information.
 
Sounds like it's a linkage problem. Perhaps a roll pin in the linkage or a weak spring. I think the problem in the linkage is allowing the mechanism to trip prematurely.
Good luck sorting it out, it should be a great backup baler for you.
 
westnebraska said:
The issue I'm experiencing is the lack of consistency. I replaced the linkage, oil reservoir, etc. I would get the desired size bale a few times and then it would make a "baby" bale. As I put new belts, and bearings in it, id like to have it as a backup baler. Im currently using a 567. Thank you for the information.
Click to expand...
I can't really remember the ins and outs of these balers anymore but I think Silver is right. Sounds like it has to be linkage adjustment or faulty valve.
What I do remember about 535s were they had a nice price. New balers are stupid expensive now.
The roller bearings were awful to replace. I modified or made my own string guides to do a better job with string placement. Those balers worked OK if you had decent windrows with longer grass and a bit of moisture.
535s dont work so good in drought or trying to bale straw behind rotary combines that everybody is using now
 
Evans said:
I can't really remember the ins and outs of these balers anymore but I think Silver is right. Sounds like it has to be linkage adjustment or faulty valve.
What I do remember about 535s were they had a nice price. New balers are stupid expensive now.
The roller bearings were awful to replace. I modified or made my own string guides to do a better job with string placement. Those balers worked OK if you had decent windrows with longer grass and a bit of moisture.
535s dont work so good in drought or trying to bale straw behind rotary combines that everybody is using now
Click to expand...
Actually if linkage was out of adjustment then you would think it would do it all the time?
If its not a micro switch that trips it to bale whatever does trip it would have to be whats doing it intermittently???
 
Evans said:
Actually if linkage was out of adjustment then you would think it would do it all the time?
If its not a micro switch that trips it to bale whatever does trip it would have to be whats doing it intermittently???
Click to expand...
I would guess weak or missing spring, possibly a broken roll pin
 
roll pin #22 is a real good place to start looking. It can be broken inside and looks fine but will cause the symptoms described

IMG_0026.png
 
I might suggest cleaning the microswitches with Deoxit. Microswitch contacts can become oxidized over time and can cause intermittent problems. Replacing them might be worth the cost and trouble. If nothing more it would eliminate one factor in the intermittent puzzle. In my experience, intermittent problems are more common in electrical or electronic, than mechanical.
 
Mountain Cowgirl said:
I might suggest cleaning the microswitches with Deoxit. Microswitch contacts can become oxidized over time and can cause intermittent problems. Replacing them might be worth the cost and trouble. If nothing more it would eliminate one factor in the intermittent puzzle. In my experience, intermittent problems are more common in electrical or electronic, than mechanical.
Click to expand...
The micro switches do not affect the tying cycle. These balers can actually be run with no monitor therefore no electricity to the baler.
 
Silver said:
Sounds like it's a linkage problem. Perhaps a roll pin in the linkage or a weak spring. I think the problem in the linkage is allowing the mechanism to trip prematurely.
Click to expand...
Evans said:
I do remember if I drove to fast or if it was to bumpy the bumps would trip some of the micro switches . Could this be what's going on? I would test switches before replacing. Although I'm not sure if a new micro switch might be less effected by bumps???
Click to expand...

It is a combination of what Silver and Evans have said.You'll find out both are right.There is something worn or broken in the mechanism that you did not replace and running over rougher ground now and then is setting the machine off to tie early.
 
Out to lunch today, at a rural café, I talked with an old farm mechanic. He said best he can remember, the problem is usually the rope operated level that is used to trip the tie for the last bale, may be getting activated somehow. Maybe rough ground as has been mentioned. The other possibility is the tie arm isn't always going the full distance. One fix might be to drain the hydraulic fluid, change the filter, and be sure to bleed it out completely. Maybe when it was rebuilt, it didn't get bled out.
 

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