In My opinion you just stole that thing. I've fixed everything from augers to plows whith one of those and still have it at my house. Do a little reading on chooseing the correct rod and heat settings, remember to use AC rods. My dad always said when in doubt use a 6011 or a 6013 with an AC welder. That advice never failed me! All of this info should be available on a Lincoln or other welding website. You will love your new machine! :wink:
welder ?
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katrina
Well-known member
Awesome!!!!! :clap: Be safe and have fun... You show us your horseshoe welding and I'll show you ours......
Thanks! I just happened to go to the right place. Maybe it won't ever run again.... 
First thing I did was check his garage out and it was real tidy and clean. I was real happy! Couldn't sleep last night I was so pumped.
Thanks for even more tips!
I can't wait to start practicing!
I'd love to see your horseshoe stuff, katrina! I may not ever be able to make anything that won't get laughed at..... Oh well, I post it anyway....
Working on being able to plug the dang thing in.... I'M READY TO WELD....
Thanks!
First thing I did was check his garage out and it was real tidy and clean. I was real happy! Couldn't sleep last night I was so pumped. Thanks for even more tips!
I can't wait to start practicing!
I'd love to see your horseshoe stuff, katrina! I may not ever be able to make anything that won't get laughed at.....
Oh well, I post it anyway.... Working on being able to plug the dang thing in....
I'M READY TO WELD.... Thanks!
$100 is a heck of a buy. I'll echo porkchop, check out the Hobart, Miller, and Lincoln websites as they all have very good information on rod selection based upon the job at hand. Another thing with grinders is to use the flapper disks for preperation instead of a grinding disk as they do not remove more metal than necessary for prep work. And remember to ask anyone welding why they do it the way they do. I've never taken formal training but the last two years I've picked the brains of numerous pipe welders and improved my welding substantially. As far as 7018 rods with that lincoln AC get 7018 AC rods or 7018 excalibur and weld on. Pipe welders that I have ran into will not root pass with a 60 series rod just lay three beads of 7018 and don't look back. Happy welding.
Shortgrass
Well-known member
Looks just like my set-up must have looked 60 years ago! It is 30 years old now, and must have been that old when I bought it. Anyway I would sure do it all over again, and mine cost more than that way back when.
3 M L & C
Well-known member
Don't be embarrassed RA about anything you make. I have been welding since I was about 9 and still have plenty of things that go in the scrap pile cause they don't work. Anyone that tells you different is full of bs.
Thanks guys! I appreciate the tips, words of encouragement and taking the time to add your input!
Getting this thing is a huge deal for me! I can't wait until I can start attacking the fence out there!....it's going to really clean things up! I was lookng it all over today and imagining it all slicked up and a couple new pens added with the stuff laying on the ground. I think I might have to start sitting in on some farm sales to get some c-clamps and all that. I'll probably start by making some elevated cloverleaf shaped hot dish holders, curtain and coat hangers out of horseshoes. I really need a barbed wire unroller that I can pull with a horse....gotta an idea for that I'd like to make. ...after and while practicing on scrap. I think I have a free generator nailed down and going to call to see what a line would cost to run to where I'll keep it.
Getting this thing is a huge deal for me! I can't wait until I can start attacking the fence out there!....it's going to really clean things up! I was lookng it all over today and imagining it all slicked up and a couple new pens added with the stuff laying on the ground. I think I might have to start sitting in on some farm sales to get some c-clamps and all that. I'll probably start by making some elevated cloverleaf shaped hot dish holders, curtain and coat hangers out of horseshoes.
I really need a barbed wire unroller that I can pull with a horse....gotta an idea for that I'd like to make. ...after and while practicing on scrap. I think I have a free generator nailed down and going to call to see what a line would cost to run to where I'll keep it.tumbleweed_texn
Well-known member
Way to go on your find RA. The Lincoln "Tombstone" is a good little welder to start out with. I have been welding professionally for over 20 years now. Welding took me allover the country until I finally found the right spot to settle. Now, eventhough we are running our own stock, I am still welding. Regardless of what some think, not all ranchers are rich. The oilpatch here in NE Wyoming is keeping me pretty hooked up.
I have 5 different machines all made by Lincoln. They range from the little shop wirefeed machine all the way up to the Pipeliner and even a 600 amp shop machine. My advice to anyone looking to buy a machine is to stick with the name brand stuff put out by companies that actually make welders. There are alot of variables when welding and especially when learning to weld. By choosing a machine from Lincoln, Hobart or Miller, when you have problems while learning, it will most likely be an error on your part and not that of the machine.
6011 is a good rod for what you will be doing. Most pro welders wont use it and call it "farm rod". That means that it is usually so easy to use that even a farmer who dont weld much can achieve success with it. There are several different rod choices that are better, but these rods require more skill to get the desired results.
Sign up for a night class at your local community college or vo-tech. It will be money well spent and you will be glad you did. This route will teach you the proper techniques as well as the theory behind what you are doing. This will make it easier for you to determine the proper plan when faced with a repair or upcoming project. Until you get good, DO NOT weld on anything that could pose a safety hazard to you or others. That is a big can of worms you dont want to deal with.
Remember, you cannot get a good weld on dirty metal. Always work with clean material. Rust and dirt dont weld. They just create voids and weak spots in your weld. If a weld looks like crap on the outside, chances are it looks worse on the inside. Get a piece of 1/2"plate and practice running beads. Pay close attention to the puddle of molten metal immediatly behind your rod tip and watch what it is doing. Watch the edges of the puddle to determine if they are covering the desired area. If the edges of the puddle dont spread out far enough, slow down. If they spread too far, speed up.
Other than messing with cows and horses, welding has been my occupation my whole adult life. I have worked allover in heavy industrial construction as well as shipyards, pipelines, the oilpatch and commercial construction. If you have any questions at all just shoot me a pm and I will give you my number. Congratulations on your new welder.
Good luck Tex
I have 5 different machines all made by Lincoln. They range from the little shop wirefeed machine all the way up to the Pipeliner and even a 600 amp shop machine. My advice to anyone looking to buy a machine is to stick with the name brand stuff put out by companies that actually make welders. There are alot of variables when welding and especially when learning to weld. By choosing a machine from Lincoln, Hobart or Miller, when you have problems while learning, it will most likely be an error on your part and not that of the machine.
6011 is a good rod for what you will be doing. Most pro welders wont use it and call it "farm rod". That means that it is usually so easy to use that even a farmer who dont weld much can achieve success with it. There are several different rod choices that are better, but these rods require more skill to get the desired results.
Sign up for a night class at your local community college or vo-tech. It will be money well spent and you will be glad you did. This route will teach you the proper techniques as well as the theory behind what you are doing. This will make it easier for you to determine the proper plan when faced with a repair or upcoming project. Until you get good, DO NOT weld on anything that could pose a safety hazard to you or others. That is a big can of worms you dont want to deal with.
Remember, you cannot get a good weld on dirty metal. Always work with clean material. Rust and dirt dont weld. They just create voids and weak spots in your weld. If a weld looks like crap on the outside, chances are it looks worse on the inside. Get a piece of 1/2"plate and practice running beads. Pay close attention to the puddle of molten metal immediatly behind your rod tip and watch what it is doing. Watch the edges of the puddle to determine if they are covering the desired area. If the edges of the puddle dont spread out far enough, slow down. If they spread too far, speed up.
Other than messing with cows and horses, welding has been my occupation my whole adult life. I have worked allover in heavy industrial construction as well as shipyards, pipelines, the oilpatch and commercial construction. If you have any questions at all just shoot me a pm and I will give you my number. Congratulations on your new welder.
Good luck Tex
tumbleweed_texn said:
Thanks! Thanks for all this! I appreciate it! You bet, I'm excited! It seems that when I get into something, I have to know all there is to know about that subject and never stop looking into it. I've added welding to that list now and am game for doing all I have to do to be a good welder. I'd say I'm pretty bad at everything I get into no matter what it is and then put lots of time in. Thanks again for taking the time to post this!
B&M Farms
Member
I have been a pipewelder for 21 years. Like tumbleweed I would say the little Lincolns are your best bet for a farm welder. As far as rods go the numbers tell you about there strength and what position they can be used in. The first 2 numbers tell you the tensile strength. A 6010 has 60000 pounds of tensile strength. A 7018 has 70000 pounds of tensile strength. If the third number is a 1 it is an all position rod. If the third number is a 2 it is flat weld only. The fourth number is the flux on the rod. A 6010 welds better dc and a 6011 welds better ac. Either will make most farm welds. 7018 has a low hydrogen flux and needs to be kept absolutely dry but will make a superior weld. You will need to run vertical welds uphill though. 6010 and 6011 can be run downhill. If I was welding a hitch or something that could be stressed, I would use 7018. As far as wire welders go a 70 series wire will make as could of weld as a 7018 stick rod as long as you get good penetration in the parent metal. Welding on top of the puddle instead of under it is where most people mess up. It takes practice. The only 2 welders I would buy would be a Lincoln or Miller. If I have to pour diesel or gas in it it would be a Lincoln. If it plugs in either will work fine.
katrina
Well-known member
This is a really good thread...Lots of knowledge right here on ranchers!!
tumbleweed_texn
Well-known member
Lots people think newer is better, but this is'nt necessarily true when it comes to welders. The best engine powered welders will have an armiture that is wrapped completely in copper. Out of my welders, the one that welds the best and is my favorite is a 1944 model Lincoln SA200. This is the predecessor to what people now call the Pipeliner. They can be bought fairly reasonable, but they are DC only at the power outlet. Most ranchers would bebetter off with a Lincoln Ranger 8 or a Miller Bobcat for the versatility and generator ability, but for laying down a good weld the SA200 is the way to go.
Tex
Tex
Bruce
Well-known member
Hey RA, I think you said you had some pipe lying around, just a head's up if it's used oilfield tubing some of it may be "magnetized" I had a bugger of a time a few year's ago building fence (I am not a welder!) one piece would weld fine the next not. Sure can be frustrating!!!
Take care
Take care
More great stuff!
This thread has been great! I was able to make heads or tails of things in a farm store a couple days ago because of all the talk on here of the different rods, flap discs, and stuff!
Been reading on magnetized pipe.....interesting.
Many thanks everyone!
I've started in reading every word ever typed on the welding message boards, just like I did and do on this board....as well as googling welding tips and stuff like that. I'm learning a lot!
Feel free to keep adding anything anyone wants to this....I'd love to read it!
This thread has been great! I was able to make heads or tails of things in a farm store a couple days ago because of all the talk on here of the different rods, flap discs, and stuff!
Been reading on magnetized pipe.....interesting.
Many thanks everyone!
I've started in reading every word ever typed on the welding message boards, just like I did and do on this board....as well as googling welding tips and stuff like that. I'm learning a lot!
Feel free to keep adding anything anyone wants to this....I'd love to read it!
tumbleweed_texn
Well-known member
Bruce said:
Working in the oilpatch, I come across alot of stuff that is magnetized. An old timer once told me to wrap my ground lead counter-clockwise atleast 5 wraps around the end of the magnetized pipe and then clamp the ground on. Seems to help.
Tex
I had to use the old Buzz Box today - - - first welder I ever bought with my own money ( I think in 1973 )
Sure is handy when something breaks away from the shop.
As you can see the first compartment holds a torch set and is handy to hang up the welding helmets. Second compartment holds the welder with c clamps, gloves, hammers, etc.
This truck has paid for its self many times over - - - I think I'm going to move the bed and contents over to an L8000 Ford I bought and should get many more years of use from it.
Sure is handy when something breaks away from the shop.
As you can see the first compartment holds a torch set and is handy to hang up the welding helmets. Second compartment holds the welder with c clamps, gloves, hammers, etc.
This truck has paid for its self many times over - - - I think I'm going to move the bed and contents over to an L8000 Ford I bought and should get many more years of use from it.
3 M L & C
Well-known member
We have always had miller welders a portable stick and wire welders in the shop. I think my next one will be a Lincoln though the lead on a miller comes straight out and the liner always gets kinked right there and won't feed good unless the whole thing is straight out. The Lincoln is already tilted down. Dad has a Miller 250 I think that thing had some sort of a power surge when you would pull the trigger and weld the wire to the tip all the time. You could do something to make it quite the sure but it still welds the tip way more than my miller 185. Man that pi$$es a guy off your holding something go to tack it and the wire sticks to the tip.
tumbleweed_texn said:
Wrapping might help,as might switching polarity. Some guys say to use a compass on your pipe to see which end has which pole, then put opposites together. Best solution is to switch to a/c and the problem goes away.
Thanks for adding more in here!
That's quite the set up, George. From what I've seen in your pictures, I can't think of anything that you aren't prepared to handle....I bet that is a good feeling.
I missed the first 22 minutes of a weld off on RFDtv this morning....so I didn't see much....
That's quite the set up, George. From what I've seen in your pictures, I can't think of anything that you aren't prepared to handle....I bet that is a good feeling.
I missed the first 22 minutes of a weld off on RFDtv this morning....so I didn't see much....
