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fence corners

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Jersey Lilly

That picture could be used in a fenceing manual :D . Unless it is an extremely long run I feel the second brace is over kill :roll: but you will never find me faulting you for going above and beyond. :D :D

Great job! :wink: :!:
 
Soapweed said:
Our method of preference is the H way, but be sure to put the horizontal brace up high between the two posts. If you don't, there is a lot of pressue on the corner post above the horizontal pipe or post. I like to just have the top wire of the fence above the brace and the other three or four wires below the brace. We then put in a "dead-man" about three feet beyond the main corner post. The hole is then tapered so that the brace wires from the deadman to the top of the far corner post run in a straight line. There is no need to make an "X" with brace wires, because the pull is only from one direction anyway. One side of the X is always loose because it does no good. The corner posts should be at least 5" x 8'. Corners made out of just regular 3' or 3 1/2" posts are too wimpy for the strain that is put on them.
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Soap I have pulled H braces from 2 directions if they are in the middle of the fence.
 
NR we should have a competition...who needs corners and braces anyways, much easier to just "curve around slews and bushes, then just stick in a big @ss post at the end!!
 
I use the H method and a 6 foot to 6.5 foot pipe for the cross. the cross pipe has a 5/8 x 4 inch rod welded on, sticking out one end. the other end has a 5/8 rod welded on long enough to stick out the other side of the second post. The anchor wire goes around the post on top of the rod sticking out from the cross pipe and never can slip down like it can if you just staple it to the post. Drill 3/4 inch holes in the post to insert the cross pipe rods. This stays in place even if one of the post get broken off. I don't hook the brace wire to the bottom of the first post either, I put in an anchor out past the first post and staple the brace wire at ground level where it pases by the first post.
I use a 5x8 or a 6x8 post for the first post and pick out one of the bigger 3.5 x 6.5 post for the second post. sometimes I use a piece of steel for a ancor with 5/8 steel sucker rod comming above the ground and then #9 wire. Most of the time I use a piece of post abt 18 or 20 inches long and #9 wire wrapped two times around the wood and twisted. I bring the wire up with one wire on each side of the first post. The wire goes up around the top of the second post and back to the end of the other wire where it is stretched tight and spliced. Then I stick the pliers handle between the wires and twist them till they are tight enought to start pulling the post over a bit. Won't be any loose wires or leaning post several years later.

Tying the wire to the bottom of the first post will pop it right out of the ground. People that try to get by with that use the real long cross to try to keep that from happening. Then they need a huge post that is heavy enough to hopefully stay down. The reason for the second (x) brace wire is an attempt help keep the first post from poping out of the ground because someone was to danged lazy to do it right and put in an anchor.
If you see the x brace, you can be almost sure the wire is just wrapped around the bottom of the post and not to a anchor.

Doing it my way makes one go in quick and it will stay unless someone hits it with a tractor. Had a 18 wheeler hit one built with hedge post, did loosen it up a bit, but he needed a new tire and rim, bet he watches where he is going better next time.

I watch some of the neighbors attempts to use the N brace or a wood post for the cross and usually within a few years all they got is a corner post with no brace and loose wires. Keep your eyes open as your travel around and you will see lots of examples that aren't doing much good after just a few yeare.
 
Life would be pretty boring if the fences were straight and the cows stayed in lol. The funniest was when I hired Mr. Precision Farmer to plow a field for me-he lined up with my fence and had a real catty wampus mess at the end. He said " Your @##$$%^$$% fence isn't straight"- I said I never said it was lol.
 
cowzilla said:
Does anybody have ideas on corner posts and braces in a slough(property Line) :???:
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A large basket full of rocks is what is used here.
 
TSR said:
Soapweed said:
Our method of preference is the H way, but be sure to put the horizontal brace up high between the two posts. If you don't, there is a lot of pressue on the corner post above the horizontal pipe or post. I like to just have the top wire of the fence above the brace and the other three or four wires below the brace. We then put in a "dead-man" about three feet beyond the main corner post. The hole is then tapered so that the brace wires from the deadman to the top of the far corner post run in a straight line. There is no need to make an "X" with brace wires, because the pull is only from one direction anyway. One side of the X is always loose because it does no good. The corner posts should be at least 5" x 8'. Corners made out of just regular 3' or 3 1/2" posts are too wimpy for the strain that is put on them.
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Soap I have pulled H braces from 2 directions if they are in the middle of the fence.
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I realize that if a person is fencing along a highway, there are certain specifications that must be met. An H brace every quarter mile whether there is a gate or not, would be an example of these "bureaucratic" specifications. As for the H brace actually doing any good, it doesn't. Just a single post works just as well, because when the fence is all done, there would be equal pressure from both sides. No brace or X wires would be needed. It is the same way if you are trying to build a corner in the middle of a Y three-way fence. No braces are needed. One single post in the middle handles all the wires pulling in three different directions.
 
cowzilla said:
Does anybody have ideas on corner posts and braces in a slough(property Line) :???:
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Yes! Move the fence up out of the slough onto firm ground. Property line or not, you are not gaining very much by fencing in part of a slough. Unless you can trap catfish in it!

DOC HARRIS
 
As usual I'll have to agree with Soapweed, and this time especially Sandhiller. I just today built (replaced) a corner, and when I left at dark the wire was singing and will get louder for a couple years at least.
Physics says that an "H" brace post and a "N" wire from the top of the brace post to the bottom of the corner is the way to go. My dad said the only way to get a corner post too deep was to hit water, (I didn't grow up in the Sandhills.).
Jersey Lily's photo was of a very nice fence corner, only in duplicate.
There are a lot of ways to build fence right, and even more ways to build fence.
 
That's one H of a corner Lilly.If you want to stay in practice feel free to stop by any time as that corner won't need any attention any time soon.
 
Haytrucker said:
As usual I'll have to agree with Soapweed, and this time especially Sandhiller.
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I agree with George's statement: "Unless it is an extremely long run I feel the second brace is over kill." Even on "an extremely long run", the second box is probably not necessary.

The only place I would disagree with Sandhiller is, that if a person goes to the trouble of building a nice box corner, that person just as well use two nice eight-foot posts instead of one eight footer and one 3 1/2" x 6 1/2 footer. That might be considered "underkill." :wink: (Not that I haven't skimped and done the same thing, Sandhiller.) :wink: :wink:

It is interesting that now posts can be bought that are "doweled" so that they are the same width on both the top and bottom. In other words, a 5" x 8' corner post is 5" wide at all points. These uniform posts are easy to work with, but when buying such a post you don't get as much post for the money as you do if buying a regular cut 5" x 8'. The regular cut posts are 5" on the smallest end, but are tapered so that the bottom end could possibly be a couple inches more in diameter on the butt end.
 
You're up early Soap. Question for all of you in "dry country". Do treated posts last a long time there? Here in NE MO they will not last any time at all any more. They rot at the top of the ground and if you are lucky you get them pulled out and replaced b4 they brake off. I absolutely refuse to "plant" anything but hedge anymore and wish I had learned my lesson yrs. ago. My "trash ditch" is full of treated pine posts that have been replaced over the last several yrs.
 
PROPERLY treated posts will last a very long time-Doc if I moved my fences out of the muskkeg in places I wouldn't have a fence. I guess if you need to fence a line through a slough I'd use electric fence. I got the neighbors going now-my home quarter has an old road bed cutting the yard off it is about a quarter mile curve-were building new fence along it right now-7' posts-6 smooth wires-3 hot-3 ground- but we moved the fence in 30 feet so it runs straight instead of around the curve-i'm gong to run my mares or bucking bulls in that strip. It does two things it solves the curve problem and will keep trees from hitting my main fence. Sure has the neighbors talking lol.
 
NR......with your new fence you can diversify even more........ should be able to hold bison..........you could sell just one bucking bull and be the instant proud owner of a big buff herd.....lots of sellers :!: :lol: :lol: :wink:
 
The reason we do two instead of just one, our ground (on normal years) is extremely wet in the winter time. normal rain fall for us thru the winter from october to march has averaged 70 inches the last 5 or so years, so the extra H helps. That corner set there in the direction you see down the fence probably runs 2 miles. Not all ours, but when ya build fence with good neighbors ya hafta go with what's on their side of the fence too. We do 3 also on any other fences we build too, we have bottom land, water gets up and there's trees and all kinda stuff floatin down the creek. That lil bit of extra keeps it from pulling the posts up. Although down at the creek we also change from good barbwire to the cheapy japanese made stuff so that when it does get up, it dont pull as bad, the wire will go ahead and break and let whatevers hung up go on thru. That way instead of havin lots of bent or pulled up T posts, we just have a couple on each side to replace, then the wire in the middle. It maybe a lil over kill in some areas. but we've tried a single H and here it just doesn't hold as well. Those posts are buried about 5 ft.
 

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